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What is the Yatagarasu? Let's Start with the Basics
Many people searching for "What is the Yatagarasu?" are probably curious about the crow symbol often seen around Kumano.
It is commonly written as 八咫烏, while 鴉 is another kanji character meaning crow. Both are read "Yatagarasu" and refer to the same being.
The Divine Messenger Who Guided Emperor Jimmu
According to mythology, the Yatagarasu is a giant crow said to have guided Emperor Jimmu and his party through the rugged mountains as they journeyed from Kumano to Yamato. "Ata" (咫) is an ancient unit of length, and "Yata" (八咫) carries the connotation of "very large."
In Kumano, thanks to this legend, the Yatagarasu has long been beloved as "a divine messenger who shows the way." For more on the meaning of its three legs, as well as talismans and charms, please see our other articles on this site.
Why Talk About Tanabe? The Yatagarasu and "The Start of a Journey"
Tanabe City is the gateway to the Nakahechi route of the Kumano Kodo. Since ancient times, people heading to Kumano have prepared for their journey and recharged here before heading into the mountains.
Following the example of the guiding divine messenger, our own travels begin by deciding "where to start walking" and "where to get ourselves ready." In that sense, spending the eve of your Kumano Kodo hike in Tanabe is a sensible choice.
An Evening of Local Fish at Ajikoji
Ajikoji, within walking distance of Kii-Tanabe Station, is a corner of alleyways lined with small eateries. Just strolling down the narrow street of glowing signboards lets you feel the atmosphere of a local evening.
Tips for Choosing Local Fish
- The fish of Kishu's seas, blessed by the Kuroshio Current, change with the seasons. Start by asking the staff what's recommended today.
- Beyond sashimi, local fish can be enjoyed grilled, simmered, or deep-fried, and each preparation brings out different flavors—that's part of the fun.
- Opening days, hours, and menus vary by shop. It's wise to check the latest information for each restaurant before visiting.
Some visitors may also be researching Tanabe's food scene under the name "Kishu Hirome." For the latest initiatives and shop information, please check official guides or the local tourism association.
Don't Miss Kumano's Regional Cuisine
Alongside local fish, Kumano has regional dishes you'll want to try during your trip.
Mehari-zushi
A rustic sushi resembling a rice ball wrapped in pickled takana (mustard greens) leaves. It's said to have been eaten during breaks from mountain work, and it has long been a favorite portable meal for walking the old pilgrimage routes.
Kishu Plums
The area around Tanabe is famous as a plum-producing region. Umeboshi (pickled plums) and other plum-based products make great companions for easing the fatigue of a day on foot.
Eat, Walk, and Search for the Yatagarasu
On a Kumano journey, you'll encounter the Yatagarasu in many places—shrine crests, charms, signposts, and more.
1. Enjoy local fish and regional cuisine in Tanabe to prepare yourself
2. The next morning, head to the trailhead of the Kumano Kodo
3. Along the way, look for Yatagarasu motifs and enjoy the feeling of "being guided"
With this flow, food and faith come together as a single travel story.
Summary
The Yatagarasu (八咫鴉 / 八咫烏) is a guiding divine messenger who showed the way from Kumano to Yamato. In Tanabe City, the gateway to Kumano, savoring local fish at Ajikoji and Kishu regional cuisine lets you prepare both your body and your mind for the journey at the same time.
Drink, dine, and head to the old road the next morning. A Kumano journey begins with a single dish the night before.
Image: 熊野本宮大社 八咫烏神事 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)
