Walking to Toukei Jinja in Tanabe from Kii-Tanabe Station | A World Heritage Shrine at the Gateway to the Kumano Kodo

Start Your Kumano Kodo Journey at Toukei Jinja in Tanabe

When people think of the Kumano Kodo, they often picture stone-paved paths deep in the mountains — but the true gateway to the journey actually lies in the seaside castle town of Tanabe. Toukei Jinja, within walking distance of Kii-Tanabe Station (where limited express trains stop), is one of the component assets of the World Heritage site "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range." It's the perfect place to pay your respects before setting off on the ancient path.

What Is Toukei Jinja? The Kumano Navy Legend Behind the Name

The origin of the shrine's name comes from a legend dating back to the Genpei War at the end of the Heian period. Tanzo, the Betto (chief priest) who led the forces of Kumano, was torn between siding with the Genji or the Heike clan. To decide, he held a cockfight between red and white roosters before the gods — and when the white rooster won, he threw his support behind the Genji.

The shrine grounds have a long history of enshrining the gods of Kumano, and have long been a place where pilgrims prayed for safe passage along their journey. Tanabe was an important waypoint for pilgrims traveling south from Kyoto and Osaka, just before they entered the mountain path of the Nakahechi route.

A Place Connected to Benkei

Tanabe is also said to be the birthplace of Musashibo Benkei. Legends related to Benkei linger around Toukei Jinja as well, making it a wonderful stroll for history enthusiasts. For us, this blending of historical fact and legend is exactly what makes Kumano so captivating.

A Leisurely Pilgrimage Stroll from Kii-Tanabe Station

The shrine is within easy walking distance of the station, through the city center. Since the route passes through shopping streets and residential areas, it feels less like a journey to a sacred site and more like visiting a shrine that's part of everyday local life.

• Stop by the tourist information center at the station and grab a map before heading out
• Bow once in front of the torii gate, then purify yourself at the water basin before praying
• Take your time within the grounds to appreciate the large trees and the character of the main hall

Opening hours and visitor information can change, so we recommend checking the official sources before your visit.

Walking with an Awareness of Its World Heritage Status

The Kumano Kodo itself — the pilgrimage "road" — is a World Heritage site, but shrines like Toukei Jinja that have supported faith along the way are equally important components. Rather than focusing only on remote mountain sites like Hongu or Nachi, turning your attention to shrines within the town gives you a clear sense of how Kumano faith has been rooted in everyday life.

A Sample Half-Day Itinerary

1. Arrive at Kii-Tanabe Station and take a short stroll around the area
2. Visit Toukei Jinja at a leisurely pace
3. Explore the surrounding town and visit spots connected to Benkei
4. If time allows, check train and bus information for heading toward the Nakahechi route

Tanabe is the gateway to the Nakahechi route of the Kumano Kodo. If you're planning to enter the mountains from Takijiri-oji the following day, visiting Toukei Jinja the evening before helps set the right mindset for the journey ahead.

Summary

Toukei Jinja in Tanabe City is a World Heritage shrine that's close to the station and easy to visit without any special preparation. Walking with the legends of the red and white roosters and the stories of Benkei in mind adds real depth to your Kumano Kodo journey. Before heading into the great mountains, start with the town's guardian shrine. This kind of beginning feels quintessentially Kumano — and we highly recommend it.

Image: 川湯温泉 (via 熊野本宮温泉郷）（(公社)和歌山県観光連盟)