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On Winter Nights at Kawayu Onsen, the Rising Steam Takes Center Stage
Kawayu Onsen in Hongu-cho, Tanabe City, is a quiet hot spring area where steam rises along the banks of the Oto-gawa River. In winter, when the air grows cold, the contrast with the hot water temperature makes the steam appear whiter than usual. When lantern lights are added to this scene at night, the atmosphere transforms completely from the daytime view.
Lantern illumination events like the "Yukemuri Toro" (Steam and Lanterns) may vary from year to year in terms of whether they are held, their duration, and lighting hours. This article doesn't cover specific dates or fees, but focuses on how to enjoy a winter evening here. Please check with the local tourism association or your lodging for the latest information before your visit.
Arrive in the Late Afternoon and "Scout the Area While It's Still Light"
The riverside at night feels darker than you might expect. We recommend arriving before sunset and checking the riverside paths and bridge locations while it's still light out.
Things to Check During Your Scouting
- The route from your lodging to the riverside, and any steps or uneven ground
- Where the lanterns are lined up and where there's space to stop and admire them
- Corners that might be confusing on the way back
Winter sunsets come early in Kumano, and the mountain valleys cool rapidly from late afternoon. Once you arrive, take a moment to settle in, then head out as it gets dark—you'll avoid feeling rushed.
Tips for a Comfortable Evening Stroll Under the Lanterns
Focus Cold-Weather Gear on Your Neck, Hands, and Feet
The riverside is exposed to wind, and the perceived temperature is much lower than in town. A scarf, gloves, and thick socks will keep you comfortable. If you're walking after a bath, a hat to keep your damp hair from getting cold will make things more pleasant.
Wear Non-Slip Shoes
Riverbanks and stone pavements can become wet and slippery from night dew and cold. Avoid sandals or thin-soled shoes and choose footwear with good grip. In dark areas, a smartphone light or small flashlight comes in handy.
For Photos, "Don't Get Too Close"
Steam and lanterns convey atmosphere best when you step back a little and capture the whole scene. Don't touch the lanterns or riverbanks, and shoot from positions that don't inconvenience others. If using a tripod, choose a spot that doesn't block the flow of people.
For Bathing and Strolling, "Walk First, Then Warm Up"
After walking under the lights with a chilled body, slowly warming up in the inn's hot spring makes for a perfect winter evening at Kawayu. There are seasons when you can enjoy the open-air bath in the riverbed, but availability and rules change with the season, so please follow local guidance.
Finishing your stroll before dinner means you don't need to go back out into the cold afterward, letting you enjoy the lingering warmth of your bath undisturbed.
For the Trip Home and the Next Morning
If you're driving, be careful of mountain roads at night and icy pavement in the morning and evening. Aim to arrive at your lodging at a reasonable hour by leaving early.
If you stay overnight, you can also see the steam rising from the river the next morning. Experiencing the glow of evening and the quiet of morning in one visit is a luxury only available to overnight guests.
Summary
A winter evening at Kawayu Onsen in Hongu-cho, Tanabe City, offers the gentle charm of lantern lights and rising steam. Scout the area in the late afternoon, bundle up well, and warm up in the hot spring after your walk. Keeping this flow in mind will make your Kumano trip in the cold season all the more enjoyable.
Image: 川湯温泉 (via 熊野本宮温泉郷）（(公社)和歌山県観光連盟)
