
A "White Mountain" in Kumano's Winter
The Nanki region is often associated with its mild coastal climate, but head a little inland and the scenery changes completely. Mt. Gomadan, rising in Ryujin Village in Tanabe City, is one of the highest peaks in Wakayama Prefecture, set along the ridgeline of the Kii Mountains. On chilly mornings, you may encounter rime ice tracing the trees in white, or a snowy landscape lightly dusted in white.
This quiet world, so different from coastal Kumano, is the charm of a winter drive.
What Is Rime Ice? When Are You Most Likely to See It?
Rime ice is a phenomenon where tiny water droplets in the air freeze onto branches and leaves. Generally, it's said to form when the following conditions come together:
- Temperatures drop sharply from the night before through the morning
- Fog or low clouds hang over the mountains
- Winds are not too strong
Since rime ice often melts and falls once the sun rises higher, the early morning hours are your best bet. That said, nature is unpredictable—there's no guarantee of seeing it. Head out with the mindset that spotting it is a lucky bonus.
Planning Your Winter Drive Route
A Mountain Drive Along the Ridge
Around Mt. Gomadan, a ridgeline road connects the Koyasan area with the Ryujin area. From the scenic lookouts, layer upon layer of mountains unfold before you. In winter, with the leaves fallen from the trees, visibility stretches far into the distance, and the air is crisp and clear.
Building In Your Stops
- Morning: Take your time admiring the rime ice and snowy scenery around Mt. Gomadan
- Late morning: Descend the mountain toward the villages of Ryujin
- Afternoon: Warm up in a hot spring before heading home
For ideas on how to enjoy the hot springs, it helps to plan alongside our existing [Ryujin Onsen Day-Trip Guide].
Safety First! Rules for Winter Mountain Roads
Even if the town below is clear and sunny, at higher elevations icy roads and snow accumulation are real possibilities.
1. Check road conditions before setting out (seasonal restrictions may apply in winter)
2. Equip your car with winter tires or chains
3. Fill up on gas early
4. Mobile phone reception can be spotty in the mountains, so download maps in advance
5. Daylight hours are short, so descend the mountain while it's still light
Shaded curves are especially prone to freezing, so slow down and keep extra distance between vehicles. "If in doubt, turn back" is the golden rule for locals.
Tips on Clothing and Gear
Temperatures at the top of the mountain are far colder than at the foot. Dress in layers and bring gloves, a hat, and warm shoes. It's easy to get chilled when you're absorbed in taking photos, so a hot drink is reassuring. When you stop the car and step outside, non-slip footwear becomes your best friend.
In Summary
The rime ice and snowy landscapes of Mt. Gomadan in Ryujin Village, Tanabe City, reveal another face of Kumano in winter. Drive through the crisp morning air, take in the frozen forest, then exhale into a hot spring tucked in the mountains. With the right gear and a relaxed plan, set out for this quiet, white mountain.
Image: 護摩壇山 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)
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