
While walking around Kumano Hongu Taisha, there are days when you think, "Next, let's head into the mountains." On such days, we recommend Totsukawa Village in Nara Prefecture. In this article, we introduce the charms of sightseeing in Totsukawa as an extension of your Kumano journey, along with tips for planning your trip.
What is Totsukawa Village? A Deep Mountain Hamlet Connected to Kumano
Totsukawa Village lies in the heart of the Kii Mountains and is one of the largest villages in Japan by area. Most of the village is covered by deep forests and steep valleys, with small communities scattered along riverside slopes.
Separated by just one mountain range from Tanabe City in Wakayama Prefecture — home to Kumano Hongu — the village has long been deeply connected to the Kumano pilgrimage routes. The feeling that it is "Nara, yet somehow Kumano" comes from this history, still visible in the landscape today.
Four Must-Try Experiences in Totsukawa
Tanize Suspension Bridge | Enjoy the Sway and the Scenery
Spanning about 300 meters across the Totsukawa River, this large suspension bridge was originally built to support local daily life. It sways gently as you walk, with the lush green of the ravine spreading below. If you're uncomfortable with heights, simply admiring it from the near side is enough to appreciate the atmosphere.
Totsukawa Hot Springs | Relax in the Mountain Baths
Totsukawa Village is also known as a place that has long cherished its hot springs. Soaking in a bath beside the river or tucked into the mountains gently melts away the fatigue of walking the old pilgrimage routes or driving. Some baths are open for day visits, while others invite you to linger as an overnight guest — choose what fits your itinerary. It's a good idea to confirm usage details with each facility in advance.
Hatenashi Village | Stone Paths of the Kohechi and Expansive Skies
Located along the Kumano Kodo Kohechi route connecting Koyasan and Kumano, Hatenashi Village is known for its hillside homes and the layered mountain views stretching into the distance. As part of a World Heritage pilgrimage route, simply walking through its peaceful air feels as though time itself begins to slow.
Tamaki Shrine | Quiet Worship Among Giant Cedars
Tamaki Shrine, enshrined atop Mount Tamaki, is one of the component sites of the World Heritage "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range." Along the approach, towering cedars that have stood for centuries greet visitors. Walking at a quiet hour, the stillness of the forest lingers deeply in the heart.
Planning a Day Trip from Kumano Hongu
Since Totsukawa is vast, the key to a satisfying trip is focusing on 2–3 spots rather than trying to see everything.
- Morning: Visit the area around Kumano Hongu, then head toward Totsukawa
- Around midday: Enjoy the view at the Tanize Suspension Bridge and take a break nearby
- Afternoon: Relax at a hot spring, or choose between Tamaki Shrine and Hatenashi Village
If you have time to spare, staying overnight in the village to savor the morning mountain air is also wonderful.
Things to Know Before You Go
- Travel takes time: Mountain roads are common, so allow more time than the map suggests.
- Public transport is limited: If using the bus, always check the latest timetable.
- Check the weather and road conditions: Heavy rain can affect road access.
- Wear comfortable shoes and bring a light layer: Elevation differences mean it can feel cooler than in town.
- Stock up on drinks and snacks early: Shops are scarce in some areas, so prepare with some leeway.
In Closing | A Journey into the "Depths" of Kumano
After visiting the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano, extending your trip to Totsukawa Village reveals a different face of prayer and daily life within the same Kii Mountains. The sway of a suspension bridge, the warmth of the baths, the quiet of a cedar forest. Don't rush, don't try to do too much — savoring one thing at a time is the Totsukawa way of travel. On your next Kumano journey, why not set your course toward the mountains?
Image: 渡瀬温泉 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)
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