Onsen park -Shirahama Onsen

Wrap Up Your Shirahama Evening at a Local Izakaya

After a day spent enjoying the scenery of Shirarahama Beach, the dramatic cliffs of Sandanbeki, and a relaxing soak in the hot springs, there's nothing quite like finishing the day with a taste of local cuisine. Many visitors wonder, "I'd love to visit an izakaya in Shirahama, but where should I go?" Rather than recommending specific restaurants, this article shares a local's perspective on how to find a great izakaya in Shirahama, along with the Kishu flavors you simply must try. In the second half, we'll also introduce tips for staying in Tanabe, a common stopover for travelers before or after walking the Kumano Kodo.

Three Tips for Choosing an Izakaya in Shirahama

1. Check the Lineup of Local Fish

The seas around the Kii Peninsula, fed by the warm Kuroshio Current, are home to a remarkable variety of fish. Restaurants that list "today's local fish" or "fresh Kishu seafood" on their menus or chalkboards are likely to offer whatever came in that day — a wonderful chance to try something you can only find here. Since seasonal fish change throughout the year, your best bet is to ask the staff for "today's recommendation."

2. Look for Wakayama's Signature Touches — Plum and Local Sake

Wakayama is famous as the home of Nanko plums, one of Japan's premier plum-producing regions. Izakayas with an extensive plum wine (umeshu) selection or that serve Kishu local sake are a dream for drink lovers. Plum wine takes on different characters depending on how it's served — on the rocks, with soda, and so on — so try a tasting flight if you can. Even if you don't drink alcohol, dishes made with plum are a delightful way to enjoy the local flavor.

3. Access from Your Lodging and the Journey Back

Part of the joy of an evening in a hot spring town is a leisurely stroll. It's wise to think ahead about whether you can comfortably walk to and from your lodging, and how you'll get back. Popular spots can get crowded, so check with each restaurant in advance about reservations and opening hours.

Kishu Flavors to Try at an Izakaya

Across the broader Kumano region, the ways to enjoy local food on your travels are wonderfully diverse, and Shirahama serves as something of a gateway. For travelers heading to the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi route, Tanabe is another important gateway where many choose to spend an evening.

Consider Tanabe for Pre- and Post-Stays on the Kumano Kodo

Tanabe City in Wakayama Prefecture, the gateway to the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi, is in many ways "the town of beginnings and endings" for pilgrims. On the way to Kumano Hongu Taisha, most travelers pass through Tanabe at least once. If you search for "Tanabe hotel recommendations," the right choice depends entirely on the purpose of your trip. Instead of naming specific properties, here we'll share a way to think about the type of stay that fits your journey. Since prices, availability, and shuttle services vary by season, always check each lodging's official information before booking.

Why Stay in Tanabe

Staying the night before makes your morning much easier. The local buses heading to the Kodo trailheads don't run frequently. If you try to travel from Osaka or Nagoya on the morning of your hike, you'll likely start walking late. Arriving in Tanabe the night before gives you a relaxed morning.

Staying the night after lets you savor the journey. After several days of walking, taking a night in town to rest is far gentler on the body than heading straight home. It's also an ideal time for laundry, repacking, and a post-dinner stroll — a fitting conclusion to your trip.

Three Types of Hotels and Inns in Tanabe

#### 1. Convenient Lodgings Near the Station

The area around JR Kii-Tanabe Station is best suited for travelers who prioritize mobility.

For a pre-stay before an early morning bus, start by looking at the distance from the station.

#### 2. Seaside Lodgings with Scenic Views or Hot Springs

Areas near Tanabe Bay offer lodgings where you can relax with the atmosphere of the sea. These are perfect for travelers who want to take their time, or who want a rewarding evening after their hike. If a property is far from the station, check in advance about taxi availability, shuttle services, and check-in times.

#### 3. Small Ryokan and Guesthouses

There's a special charm to family-run inns where you can chat with the owners about the local area. Lodgings familiar with hikers' needs are often flexible about breakfast times and luggage questions. Conditions vary by lodging, so don't hesitate to ask when making your reservation.

Five Things to Confirm Before Booking

1. Distance and route from the station: On nights when you arrive late, consider slopes and lighting
2. Breakfast start time: Especially important if you're catching an early bus
3. Luggage storage after checkout: Makes exploring town much easier on your post-stay day
4. Dinner arrangements: Will you eat at the lodging, or head out to a town izakaya?
5. Laundry and drying facilities: A lifesaver for multi-night stays or longer treks

How to Spend the Evening and Next Morning in Tanabe

If you have time in the late afternoon, consider walking to Tokei Shrine, one of the component sites of the World Heritage listing. The town is also known for its connections to the legendary warrior-monk Benkei, and simply strolling through it gives you a sense of standing at the threshold of Kumano. For dinner, you might apply the "local fish" and "plum and local sake" perspectives from earlier and enjoy dishes made with regional seafood and plum.

The next morning, double-check the bus schedule, eat breakfast early, and give yourself plenty of time to depart. Since timetables can change by season and day of the week, it's wise to confirm the latest information the day before.

Tips for Enjoying Your Evening

Don't order more than you can eat right from the start — begin with a little local fish and a few small dishes. Through conversation with the staff, you may discover unique local ways to enjoy certain foods or hear about seasonal recommendations. Rather than places that cater flashily to tourists, restaurants that convey the genuine local atmosphere will leave the most lasting memories.

In Summary

When choosing an izakaya in Shirahama, keep three things in mind: "local fish," "plum and local sake," and "access."

And when staying in Tanabe before or after walking the Kumano Kodo, choose your lodging by working backward from "when and where" you're heading.

Whether your evening is softened by hot springs and sea views, or settled at the gateway to the ancient pilgrimage trail, take your time enjoying the flavors and drinks of Kishu. It will surely make for a wonderful conclusion — and a graceful first step — on your Kumano journey.

*Content revised and updated on October 31, 2026.*

Image: Onsen park -Shirahama Onsen / Photo: Prue Simmons / CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)