Nachi Falls and cherry blossoms

Perched on the slope of Mt. Nachi, Seigantoji is the first temple on the Saigoku Thirty-Three Kannon Pilgrimage. Standing here, you can see Nachi Falls dropping as a slender white ribbon beyond the vermilion three-story pagoda. Many travelers will recognize this iconic Kumano scene from photos and postcards. In this article, we share — from a local perspective — how to appreciate this one view, and in what spirit to receive the goshuin (temple seal).

The Goshuin at Seigantoji: 'The Opening Page of Your Pilgrimage'

Seigantoji is the starting point of the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage, a route visiting temples devoted to Kannon (the Bodhisattva of Compassion). Because this is the 'number one' of a pilgrimage said to span more than a thousand years, the goshuin you receive here carries a special weight unlike those at other temples.

Some visitors stop by in the middle of their pilgrimage; others come for this single temple alone. Either way, the goshuin is 'proof of your visit.' If you make a point of praying at the main hall first and receiving the seal afterward, the inked characters will feel all the more meaningful.

For details on reception locations and hours, please check on-site notices or official sources. Note that the neighboring Kumano Nachi Taisha is a Shinto shrine, and its seal is issued at a separate location. If you plan to receive both, you will do so at different places.

The Composition Where the Pagoda and Nachi Falls Overlap

The vermilion of the pagoda, the deep green of the backdrop, and the straight white line of the falls — fitting all three into a single frame is what makes this composition so compelling. The human-built vermilion pagoda overlapping with the natural waterfall creates a view that could only exist on a mountain shaped by the fusion of Shinto and Buddhism.

Pray First, Then Shoot

When you arrive at the precincts, don't raise your camera right away — head to the main hall first. Completing your prayers first settles the mind and leaves you with room to simply enjoy the view afterward. The right feeling is something like, 'I've paid my respects, and now I'll receive this view as a gift.'

Light and Seasons Change the Mood

Even from the same spot, the time of day and weather dramatically alter the impression.

Each kind of weather has its charm, so don't lock yourself into 'it has to be sunny.'

Photography Etiquette

This is a popular photo spot, so it can get crowded. Don't monopolize a space with a tripod for too long, don't stop in the middle of the path, and take turns. Keeping these three points in mind lets everyone enjoy their visit. Also, please follow posted notices in places where photography is restricted, such as inside the halls.

Looking Back at Your Goshuin Book and Photos Together

After your trip, open your goshuin book and look at the photo you took. When the brushed ink and the scene of the pagoda and falls from that day connect in your mind, the memory of your visit will come back more vividly. Saving the photo on your smartphone under the same date as the goshuin page is a small but lovely way to preserve the moment.

In Closing

A visit to Seigantoji is easier to savor when you think of it in three steps: 'pray, receive, behold.' The goshuin is the opening page of your pilgrimage, and the view of the three-story pagoda and Nachi Falls is the scene that accompanies that page. Before you press the shutter, pause for a breath and put your hands together. Walking in that order, the landscape of Mt. Nachi will stay with you much more deeply.

Image: 那智の滝　桜 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)