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Ryujin Onsen: A "Secluded Hot Spring You Can Visit in a Day"
Tucked into the mountains of Tanabe City in Wakayama Prefecture, Ryujin Onsen bubbles up along the upper reaches of the Hidaka River. Together with Kawanaka Onsen in Gunma and Yunokawa Onsen in Shimane, it is known as one of Japan's "Three Hot Springs of Beauty." Located on the northern side of the mountains along the Nakahechi route of the Kumano Kodo, it offers a quiet world of rivers and forests — a different atmosphere from the Kumano Sanzan.
Staying overnight to soak in the waters is ideal, but even on days when you're staying in Shirahama or Tanabe, or between stages of walking the Kumano Kodo, a day trip to Ryujin Onsen fits easily into your itinerary.
A Basic Day-Trip Itinerary
Morning: Shift Gears from Coast to Mountain
From the Tanabe and Shirahama area, most visitors drive up into the mountains. Travel time can vary depending on weather and road conditions, so it's best to set off in the morning with time to spare. Watching the scenery change from coastal views to deep valleys and cedar forests is one of the pleasures of this journey.
Midday: Take a Riverside Stroll on Arrival
The hot spring village is compact, and you can stroll alongside the murmuring Hidaka River. A short walk before bathing helps your body acclimate to the mountain air and makes the hot spring feel all the more soothing. For lunch, look for simple, mountain-style fare at eateries in the village or along the way.
Afternoon: Relax with a Day Bath
The waters here are known for their smooth, silky touch, perfect for easing travel fatigue. Opening hours, closed days, and fees for day-use bathing facilities can change seasonally, so it's best to check the official website or call ahead for the latest information before setting off.
Getting There by Public Transport
You'll need to transfer from a train station to a local bus, but services in mountain areas are limited. The key to a smooth trip is to confirm both outbound and return bus times first, then work backward to decide how long you'll spend in the bath. If you want more flexibility, consider a taxi or rental car.
Tips for Driving the Mountain Roads
- Leave early, return early: Mountain areas grow dark quickly once the sun begins to set.
- Fuel up in advance: Gas stations are scarce once you're in the mountains.
- Watch out for winter roads: At higher elevations, surfaces can freeze in the morning and evening. Check weather forecasts and road conditions.
- Take curves and oncoming traffic easy: Don't rush — plan for rest stops along the way.
Packing Tips
In addition to a bath towel and change of clothes, bring a drink for after your soak. Those with dry skin may want moisturizer on hand. Comfortable walking shoes are good for the riverside, and a light extra layer is useful depending on the season. Mountain areas often feel cooler than the coast, so having something to throw on will give you peace of mind.
Who This Trip Is For
- Travelers staying in Shirahama or Tanabe who want to sample a mountain hot spring
- Those looking to unwind the day after walking the Kumano Kodo
- Visitors who prefer quiet hot spring towns over busy tourist spots
Ryujin Onsen is not a place to rush through. Let yourself be carried by the sound of the river and the warmth of the waters, and set out on a day trip to experience the "mountain face" of Kumano.
Image: 川湯温泉 (via 熊野本宮温泉郷）（(公社)和歌山県観光連盟)
