
When traveling the Kumano Sanzan by train, first understand which shrines have stations
If you search for "Kumano Sanzan model course by train," the first thing you'll run into is the fact that only two of the three shrines are reachable by train.
- Kumano Hayatama Taisha: within walking distance of Shingu Station
- Kumano Nachi Taisha: reached by bus toward Nachisan from Kii-Katsuura Station and others
- Kumano Hongu Taisha: no station; reached by bus into the mountains from Shingu Station and elsewhere
Rather than thinking of a train trip as "connecting the three shrines by station," it's easier to plan if you consider it a journey that uses stations as gateways and adds buses from there.
The key is to "decide the bus to Hongu first"
Of the three shrines, Hongu takes the most time to reach. Buses heading into the mountains don't run as frequently as urban lines. So if you first fix the bus to Hongu and then place Hayatama and Nachi around it, your plan is less likely to fall apart.
Since specific times and fares change by season, be sure to check the latest information from each operator before departure.
Pattern A: Visit Hongu first, then return via Shingu and Nachi
Suited to: those who can start early and want to visit Hongu at a relaxed pace
1. Arrive at Shingu Station by train, then transfer to a bus bound for Hongu
2. Visit Kumano Hongu Taisha, and continue on to Oyunohara, the former shrine site
3. Take a bus back toward Shingu and visit Kumano Hayatama Taisha
4. Travel by train to Kii-Katsuura Station and stay overnight in the port town of Katsuura
5. The next morning, take a bus up to Nachisan to visit Kumano Nachi Taisha and Nachi Falls
The strength of this pattern is that you can spend your freshest hours at Hongu. On the other hand, if you miss the first bus the whole schedule shifts, so adding a night's stay beforehand is reassuring.
Pattern B: Visit the two train-accessible shrines first, and save Hongu for last
Suited to: those who want to minimize travel and ease into the mountains after getting used to the area
1. Get off at Shingu Station and walk to Kumano Hayatama Taisha
2. Travel by train to Kii-Katsuura Station and stay overnight in Katsuura
3. The next day, visit Kumano Nachi Taisha, Seiganto-ji Temple, and Nachi Falls at Nachisan
4. Return to Shingu Station and take a bus to Kumano Hongu Taisha
Since you cover distance by train in the first half, you'll feel less tired on the first day. However, because Hongu comes last, be sure to check the connections between the return bus and train in advance.
Tips unique to train travel
Concentrate transfers at "Shingu Station"
Shingu Station is a three-way junction: walking to Hayatama Taisha, boarding the bus to Hongu, and catching the train toward Katsuura. It's also a good idea to ask at the station's information desk whether coin lockers are available for your luggage.
Use limited express and local trains strategically
Use the limited express for long distances, and local trains are fine for short sections like Shingu to Katsuura. Dividing them this way makes it easier to balance time and cost. That said, trains run on a limited schedule too.
Leave buffer by planning backward from your return train
On the final day, build your schedule by working backward from your return limited express time. Buses in the mountains may run late. Treat the final stop as "we'll go if we can," and your whole trip will end calmly.
Summary
The key to touring the Kumano Sanzan by train is to decide on station-less Hongu first, then arrange everything else around Shingu Station. Consult the timetables and choose the pattern that fits your own pace.
Image: 熊野速玉大社 御旅所神事 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)
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