
When Driving the Kumano Sanzan, Decide on Your "Lunch Town" First
On a day of driving around the Kumano Sanzan (Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Kumano Nachi Taisha), the question that most often trips people up is: "In what order should I visit them?" What we recommend is building your route not around the order of the shrines, but around where you'll eat lunch.
Among the three shrines, the area where you can enjoy a meal in a seaside port town is between Shingu and Nachikatsuura. Once you decide, "Since I'm here, I'll have tuna in Nachikatsuura," the flow of your morning and afternoon falls neatly into place.
Getting a Rough Sense of the Three Shrines' Locations
- Kumano Hongu Taisha: Inland, nestled in the mountains. You exit toward Shingu along the road that follows the Kumano River.
- Kumano Hayatama Taisha: In the city center of Shingu — a town where the sea and river meet.
- Kumano Nachi Taisha: Halfway up Mt. Nachi. You ascend a mountain road from the coast side of Nachikatsuura.
It's easiest to picture it as a single line from mountain to sea: from inland Hongu down to the coast, through Shingu, and on to Nachikatsuura.
Pattern A: Start at Hongu, Enjoy a Tuna Lunch in Katsuura
Visit Kumano Hongu Taisha in the morning, then drive along the Kumano River to Shingu. After stopping by Hayatama Taisha, take a relaxed lunch in Nachikatsuura, and head up to Mt. Nachi in the afternoon.
What's Good About This Pattern
- You get to savor the quiet morning atmosphere of Hongu
- Lunch becomes a "reward" for the drive
- In the afternoon, the sights — Nachi Falls, the shrine, and Seigantoji Temple — are clustered close together
Pattern B: Start at Mt. Nachi, Lunch in Katsuura, Then Shingu and Hongu in the Afternoon
If you're staying near Katsuura, the reverse route — heading up to Mt. Nachi first thing in the morning — works well too. After lunch, head to Shingu, and plan to arrive at Hongu with plenty of time to spare.
Points to Keep in Mind
The drive toward Hongu tends to involve long stretches of mountain road. In seasons when the sun sets early, a late afternoon departure can leave you driving in uneasy conditions. Shrine reception and closing hours may change, so please check the official information before setting out.
Tips for Enjoying a Tuna Lunch Stress-Free
Nachikatsuura is a port town famous for fresh tuna. However, lunchtime can get crowded, so here are a few things we recommend:
- Shift away from the lunch peak: Aim to arrive a little earlier or a little later than the rush
- Check parking in advance: Look up whether the restaurant has its own parking lot, and where nearby parking is easy to find
- Confirm business days and reservations with each shop: Closing days and daily catch can vary
It's easy to feel drowsy after a meal, so if you're the driver, take a short break gazing at the sea before heading onto the mountain roads — you'll feel much more at ease.
Planning Notes Unique to Car Travel
- In Kumano, shops and gas stations can be far apart on some stretches. Refuel early.
- Mountain roads are full of curves, so motion sickness medicine for passengers is reassuring to have on hand.
- Don't try to cram all three shrines into one day — leave one "buffer stop" that you can cut if needed.
In Summary
For a model course driving the Kumano Sanzan, placing lunch in Nachikatsuura at the center keeps the day from feeling rushed. Make the tuna lunch the "highlight of the day" and arrange your shrine visits before and after. Just that alone should make the flow of a journey linking mountains and sea much easier to picture.
Image: マグロ丼 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)
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