Kumano Kodo

"How much water should I bring when walking the Kumano Kodo?"

When packing before you set out, this is a question that's surprisingly tricky. Too much, and the weight digs into your shoulders; too little, and you'll feel uneasy partway up the mountain. In this article, we'll look at how much water you need on the Kumano Kodo as a rule of thumb, based on two factors: walking time and season.

*The amounts here are general guidelines only. They vary with build, how much you sweat, and how you're feeling that day, so fine-tune based on your own sense of things.*

Start by thinking "per hour"

It's easier to think about water in terms of walking time rather than distance.

For example, if you're walking half a day (3–4 hours), that's about 1 liter in cooler months and 1.5–2 liters in hot months as a baseline. For a short stroll along the stone pavements (around an hour), a single 500 ml bottle plus a little reserve will often be enough.

Add or subtract depending on the season

In summer, aim for 1.5× your estimate

Even though it feels cool among the cedars, humidity is high and you sweat more than you'd expect. By the time you feel thirsty, you may already be starting to run low. In summer, adding about 50% to your baseline gives you peace of mind.

In winter, don't cut back too much

In cold weather, you don't feel thirst as readily, and it's easy to walk without drinking. You can reduce the amount, but don't go to zero. Bringing a small amount of a warm drink in a thermos also helps regulate body temperature during breaks.

Split your water into three roles

When I pack, I think about water in terms of its role.

1. For drinking while walking: in a smaller bottle somewhere easy to reach
2. For drinking at breaks: inside your backpack. Varying the flavor—sports drinks, barley tea—makes it easier to keep drinking
3. Reserve: "water you don't touch" in case the return trip takes longer than planned. Treat it as off-limits until the very end

Just being aware of that third "reserve" completely changes your peace of mind.

Don't rely on water along the trail

Along the Kumano Kodo there are famous springs and clear-water spots scattered here and there, said to have quenched travelers' thirst for centuries. However, whether they're actually drinkable varies by location and season. Enjoy them as historic stops to visit, but plan on the premise that you'll bring your own drinking water.

Tips for drinking

For families with children and seniors

Children's body temperatures rise more easily than adults', and seniors may not feel thirst as readily. Think of it as adding "a reminder" to the adult baseline—at every break, prompt them with, "Shall we have a sip?" A bottle with a lid that doubles as a small cup makes sharing easier.

Summary: Think in terms of "margin," not "subtraction"

For water on the Kumano Kodo, calculate your baseline from "walking time × season," then add one spare bottle. Just doing this greatly reduces anxiety on the trail. Yes, your pack will be a bit heavier, but having a little left over on the way home is just the right amount.

Lighten your load somewhere other than water. With water alone, give yourself a little margin. Every step along the old road will be that much more enjoyable.


Image: 熊野古道 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)