
Takijiri-oji: A "Gateway" Before It's a "Starting Point"
Many people begin walking the Kumano Kodo from Takijiri-oji, but this is more than just a trailhead. In the past, pilgrims on the Kumano journey regarded this place as the threshold into Kumano's sacred realm. The shrine stands beside the Iwata River, with rock cliffs rising behind it. If you offer a quiet prayer here before setting off, the same trail will feel a little different.
The Character of the First Climb from Takijiri-oji
From Takijiri-oji onward, the trail heads straight into the mountains. The climb begins right away, so it may not match the image some have of the old road as a gentle stroll along flat stone paving.
For the First 30 Minutes, "Don't Walk Fast" Is the Right Answer
- Keep a pace that lets you breathe steadily and still hold a conversation
- Shed a layer early if you start to feel warm
- Sip water bit by bit before you feel thirsty
If you push too hard at the start, your legs will pay for it later. Hold back here and let your body gradually adjust to the mountain.
Knowing the Highlights Along the Way
Tainai-kuguri
Near Takijiri-oji there's a spot called "Tainai-kuguri," where you pass through a gap between rocks. It's often described as a kind of rebirth ritual, and it gives you a sense of why Kumano is called "the land of rebirth." Whether you can pass through and the current conditions may vary with the season, so please check the on-site signage.
Chichi-iwa
Here a large limestone rock juts out, and there are various theories about the origin of its name. Legends tied to its spiritual powers are also passed down, and simply stopping to look up conveys the atmosphere of the old road. It's also a good spot for a photo break.
The Village of Takahara and Its Kumano Shrine
Once you crest the climb, the view opens up and the landscape of Takahara unfolds before you. The great camphor tree at Takahara Kumano Shrine here has a striking presence even from a distance. You can feel the peaceful air of a mountain village — a moment when you'll think, "I'm glad I made the climb."
Things to Keep in Mind When Walking from Takijiri-oji
- Wear shoes with good grip. There are rocky areas and sections of damp earth.
- If you feel it's too much, don't hesitate to turn back.
- During seasons when the sun sets early, allow plenty of time at the start.
- Weather can differ between the base and higher up, so bring an extra layer.
Information on open facilities and transportation can change, so please check the latest details before you set out.
Walk the Entrance Carefully, and the Shape of Your Journey Comes into Focus
The appeal of walking the Kumano Kodo from Takijiri-oji lies in the sense of "stepping into the world of Kumano" from this very point. The first climb is a bit tough, but that's exactly what makes the feeling of openness at Takahara so rewarding. Take your time, one breath at a time, and pass through the gateway to this sacred realm.
Image: 熊野古道中辺路 高原 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)
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