A Beginner's Guide to the Coastal Kumano Kodo Ohechi | Three Ways to Walk from Tanabe to Nachi Along the Kareki-nada Coast

The Coastal Ohechi, in Contrast to the Mountainous Nakahechi

When people think of the Kumano Kodo, many picture moss-covered stone pavements and deep stands of cedar. But the Kii Peninsula is also home to another kind of trail — one walked with the presence of the sea close at hand. This is the Ohechi.

The Ohechi is said to follow the coastline from Tanabe, rounding Kushimoto and continuing toward the Nachikatsuura area. In contrast to the Nakahechi, which crosses the mountains toward Hongu, the Ohechi links inlets, capes, and fishing villages as it progresses. Travelers of old likely made their way toward the sacred sites of Kumano with the sound of the surf in their ears.

What to Know Before Walking the Ohechi

Not a Single Continuous Trail, but a Route Connected in Sections

The Ohechi is long, and the condition of the trail and the quality of signage vary from section to section. In some places the old road remains as it was, while in others it now overlaps with paved roads or coastal routes.

For this reason, rather than trying to walk the entire route at once, the beginner's approach is to choose easy-to-walk sections and connect them through day trips or short itineraries. Trail conditions and signposts can change, so it's a good idea to check the latest information at local municipal tourist offices before setting out.

Easy to Divide Up by Train and Bus

The JR Kisei Main Line runs along the coast, which makes it convenient to use stations as starting points when dividing the Ohechi into sections. The "walk out, train back" style works well here, so you don't have to retrace your steps. That said, trains can be infrequent at certain times of day, so check the timetable in advance.

Ideas for Representative Courses | Choose from Three Areas

① Tanabe & Shirahama Area | A Short Walk to Sample the Entrance

The Tanabe–Shirahama area marks the beginning of the Ohechi. Close to hot spring resorts and town centers, it offers sections that are easy to try in half a day. As you cross gentle slopes, you can feel the scenery gradually shift from townscape to seaside. It's a great "trial run" for getting a sense of the Ohechi's atmosphere.

② Susami to Kushimoto Area | The Kareki-nada Coast and Cape Views

This stretch of rugged coastline is where the character of the Ohechi comes through most strongly. Around Kushimoto you'll find famous scenic spots such as the row of rocks at Hashikui-iwa and Cape Shionomisaki, known as the southernmost point of Honshu. Rather than being too ambitious with distance, you'll enjoy it more if you allow plenty of time to simply take in the scenery.

③ Kushimoto–Koza–Taiji–Nachikatsuura Area | Toward the Gateway of Kumano

As you pass through Koza and Taiji and draw closer to Nachikatsuura, the world of the Kumano Sanzan comes into view at the end of the road. Taiji is a town known for its history with whales, where you can also feel the daily life of a port town. Connecting your Ohechi journey to Mt. Nachi and wrapping it up there makes for an appealing itinerary.

Preparations Unique to a Coastal Trail

• Protection against sun and wind: Some sections have little shade, so bring a hat, sunscreen, and plenty to drink.
• Footwear: You'll encounter stretches of paved road as well as mountain stone steps and dirt paths. Non-slip shoes are essential.
• Check the weather: Coastal areas are easily affected by wind and waves, and rough days diminish the scenic enjoyment. Don't push it — being willing to shift your plans is important.
• Plan your supplies: Some sections have few shops, so stock up on drinks and snacks in town before setting out.

Summary | The Ohechi Is the Kumano Kodo Where You "Gather Scenery as You Walk"

The appeal of the Ohechi lies not in rushing to cover distance, but in being able to walk while gathering the scenery of sea, capes, and port towns. Start by getting a feel for the trail on a short section around Tanabe or Shirahama, then try walking combined with the scenic spots of Kushimoto. By gradually adding sections like this, the full picture of the Ohechi will come into view without strain.

A path scented with the sea, different from the mountainous Kumano Kodo. Why not add it as an option for your next journey?

Image: 熊野古道 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)