Kumano Kodo in May: Choose 'Before, During, or After Golden Week' | Deciding When to Walk Based on Crowds and the Shift to Fresh Green

Kumano Kodo in May: 'When You Walk' Makes It a Different Journey

May, with its dazzling fresh greenery, is one of the most inviting seasons to walk the Kumano Kodo. However, even within the same month of May, the atmosphere on the trail differs considerably before, during, and after Golden Week. Before thinking about clothing or gear, start by deciding which day to walk.

Before Golden Week: Quietly Walking Through the Last of the Budding Season

From late April to just before Golden Week, the mountain greens deepen rapidly. Some days still haven't seen the full influx of travelers, making it easier to savor the stone pavements and cedar forest paths at a calm pace.

• You can afford to pause at the oji (small shrines that serve as landmarks for pilgrimage)
• It's easier to compare options for buses and lodgings
• Days grow longer, making it easier to build slack into your itinerary

During Golden Week: Read the Flow of People and 'Shift' Your Timing

During Golden Week, popular sections and areas near trailheads tend to get busy. Liveliness isn't a bad thing, but those seeking quiet will need a little strategy.

Three Tips for Shifting Your Timing

1. Set out early in the morning: Starting ahead of others lets you walk without worrying about the people in front of or behind you.
2. Walk only part of a famous section: Turn back at an oji partway in from the trailhead, keeping your route short.
3. Decide on a lunchtime resting spot in advance: This helps you avoid the busiest hours.

Since transportation also tends to be crowded this time of year, it's reassuring to check your round-trip travel arrangements early.

After Golden Week: Savor the Old Trail as It Moves Toward Early Summer

Once Golden Week ends, the trails regain some of their quiet. The layers of overlapping leaves increase, and you'll see more days when the sunlight filtering through takes on a green hue. On the other hand, this is also when the rainy season approaches, so getting into the habit of frequently checking the weather forecast is important.

• Stone pavements are slippery after rain, so watch your footing
• Sunny stretches can feel hot on some days, so bring plenty of water
• Keep a corner of your mind on preparations for insects and sunshine

After Walking, Reward Yourself with Lunch in a Port Town

After walking the fresh green mountain paths, you'll naturally crave seafood. Nachikatsuura is known as one of Japan's foremost tuna fishing ports. Pairing your Kumano Kodo walk with a tuna lunch in Nachikatsuura lets you enjoy both mountain and sea in a single day.

Business days and crowd levels vary from day to day, so it's a good idea to check the latest information before you go. During Golden Week, keep in mind that there may be waits at mealtimes, so allowing extra time will put you at ease.

Summary: In May, 'How You Choose the Day' Determines the Enjoyment

On the Kumano Kodo in May, both the crowds and the atmosphere change before, during, and after Golden Week. If you want a quiet walk, choose the days before or after; if you consider the liveliness part of the journey, head out early in the morning. Pick the day that matches your own pace of travel, and take your time walking the green old trails.

Image: 熊野古道中辺路　道休禅門 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)