Kumano Kodo Nakahechi, Daimon-zaka

On the Kumano Kodo in May, "Warm" and "Cool" Take Turns

May, when the fresh greenery deepens, is one of the most pleasant seasons to walk the Kumano Kodo. But choosing what to wear can be surprisingly tricky.

The reason: how you feel can change dramatically depending on the place and the time of day. On open ridges and in villages, you'll break a sweat under the sun, but step into a grove of cedar or cypress and the air turns crisp. In higher-elevation sections, mornings and evenings can even feel a bit chilly.

Rather than fixating on temperature numbers, this article offers a way of thinking about clothing based on the shifts between "sun" and "shade," and between "morning, midday, and evening."

Dressing by Time of Day in May

Morning: Start Out Feeling Slightly Cool

As you set off, a lightweight long-sleeve shirt, or a T-shirt paired with a light layer, is often just right. Your body warms up quickly once the climbing begins, so aim to feel "a little cool" at the start. Overdressing means sweating from the early stages, which can leave you chilled later on.

Midday: Light Layers with Breathable Fabrics

When the sun is high, moisture-wicking T-shirts and base layers really shine. 100% cotton is slow to dry, so if you tend to sweat, synthetic fibers or wool blends will keep you more comfortable. Stow your outer layer in your pack, in a spot where you can grab it quickly.

Evening: Prepare for Chill During Descents and Waiting Times

After you finish walking, sweat can cool on your skin and leave you cold while waiting for a bus or visiting a shrine. Carrying a change of clothing (a thin long-sleeve shirt or fleece) will give you peace of mind.

Small Touches for Sun, Insects, and Sudden Rain

Sun Protection

Even on a trail with plenty of shade, UV rays in May can feel surprisingly strong in open areas. A hat, sunglasses, and a towel or buff to cover the back of your neck are a big help.

Insect Protection

As the greenery fills in, mountain creatures grow more active too. Long pants and a thin long-sleeve shirt that reduce exposed skin, along with insect repellent, are a good idea. Simple habits—like not sitting down in grassy areas on breaks—also go a long way.

Sudden Showers

While May tends to have many stable, sunny days, in some years the latter half of the month turns rainy. A compact, packable rain jacket is essential. For a wet-weather mindset, see our existing article "[How to Think About Clothing on the Kumano Kodo in the Rain](#)."

Don't Cut Corners on Footwear and Accessories, Regardless of Season

Stone-paved and dirt paths can be slippery in spots, whether dry or damp. Stick with shoes you've broken in, choose socks made from moisture-wicking materials, and pack a spare pair for added comfort.

May Clothing Checklist

In Summary

Comfort on the Kumano Kodo in May comes down to being able to adjust by adding or removing layers. Start the morning feeling slightly cool, let sweat escape at midday, and carry an extra layer for the evening. Just keeping this flow in mind lets you enjoy the fresh-green trails right to the end. Check the forecast and the elevation of your chosen section, and plan a day that doesn't push you too hard.


Image: 熊野古道中辺路 大門坂 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)