Walking the Kumano Kodo in March: Where Winter Meets Spring — An Early Spring Notebook on Chilly Mornings, Warm Afternoons, and Short Days

March on the Kumano Kodo is a season when traces of winter and hints of spring mingle on the same path. Before the crowds arrive, you can savor the stone-paved trails and cedar groves in a calm, settled atmosphere. That said, assuming "it's spring, so I can dress lightly" can leave you chilled once you're in the mountains. This article organizes how to walk the Kumano Kodo comfortably in March, from three perspectives.

In March, the Kumano Kodo Holds "Two Seasons in a Single Day"

Winter in the Morning and Evening, Spring at Midday

In March, the mountain air in the early morning is still cold, yet on some days once the sun climbs high you won't need a jacket in sunny spots. Inside cedar forests or in the shade of valleys, however, it can feel chilly even at midday.

What helps most here is "layering that's easy to put on and take off." Start out wearing an outer layer, remove it once your body warms up, and put it back on during rest breaks. Planning around this routine helps prevent getting chilled from sweat.

Don't Let Your Guard Down About Rain and Footing, Even in Early Spring

Early spring weather changes easily, and stone paths after rain become slippery with moss and fallen leaves. Shoes with sturdy soles and rain gear you can pull out quickly will put you at ease. Be sure to check the latest weather and trail conditions before you set out.

Build the Short Days Into Your Schedule

Although March days are longer than winter's, it starts to grow dark around 6 p.m. Since mountain areas dim earlier than towns, we recommend planning with enough margin to "finish walking by around 3 p.m."

• Set out early in the morning
• Have lunch early, near a rest spot
• Work backwards from your return bus or train time to decide your turnaround point

Don't try to do too much — choose one short section. That alone creates room to take photos and pause along the way.

Pleasures Unique to March

Quiet and the Signs of Budding

Compared to peak tourist seasons, the trails are often quieter. You can clearly hear your own footsteps, birdsong, and the sound of streams. Soft colors begin to tinge the tips of branches, and small flowers appear at your feet — this is a season when you can meet "spring on its way." It's often still too early for cherry blossoms, so rather than making hanami the main event, think of it as a stroll in search of subtle signs, and your satisfaction will grow.

Preparing for Pollen Season

Kumano is a land of many cedar trees, so if you're sensitive to pollen, bring a mask, glasses, and plenty of tissues. Lightly brushing off your outer layer before going indoors will make things more comfortable.

Warm Up in a Hot Spring Afterward

For a body chilled by early spring, an onsen feels all the more wonderful. Keep your walking distance modest and allow plenty of time to soak in the bath. That too is a travel style suited to the Kumano Kodo in March.

Three Things to Check Before You Set Out

1. Did you bring an outer layer for mornings and evenings, plus a light midday layer?
2. Do you have rain gear and non-slip shoes?
3. Have you decided on your turnaround point and your return transportation?

The Kumano Kodo in March is a journey for savoring "the quiet shift of the seasons" rather than anything flashy. As long as you watch out for the chill and the short days, it can become a calm and memorable day.

Image: 熊野古道中辺路　大門坂 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)