Kumano Kodo Magose Pass: Plan from the 'Return Trip' First | Notes on Building a Pass Hike in Owase and Kihoku

With Magose Pass, Decide 'Where to Finish' First

Magose Pass on the Kumano Kodo is a representative stretch of the Iseji route, straddling Owase City and Kihoku Town in Mie Prefecture. Pilgrims heading from Ise Jingu to Kumano once crossed this path, and its moss-covered stone pavement and deep groves of trees make it one of the most memorable sections of the World Heritage-listed old road.

The stone pavement is what catches the eye, but when it comes to actually planning your hike, it works better to start with 'how you'll get back.' A mountain pass is essentially a one-way route up and over. Because the entrance and exit are far apart, how you move on from your finishing point can make or break your day.

Three Main Options

① Make it a round trip and return to your starting point

Enter from the same trailhead, turn around at the top of the pass, and come back. This is the simplest option for anyone arriving by car or leaving their luggage behind.

• No need to worry about return transport; you set your own pace
• The light shifts between the outbound and return legs, so the same stone pavement looks different
• It's easy to decide to turn back before reaching the summit

② Cross over and exit on the opposite side

This is a through-hike connecting the Owase side with the Kihoku side. The sense of accomplishment from 'crossing the pass' is strongest here. However, you'll need to arrange a train, bus, or taxi from your exit point. Service is limited in this area, so always check the latest timetables on official sources before setting out.

③ Walk partway and skip the rest

On days when time or energy is short, simply enjoying the most beautiful section of stone pavement and turning back is a perfectly good choice. Pushing yourself over the pass often leaves you less satisfied than this.

In Rainy Owase, Moss Suits the Stone Pavement

Owase is known as one of the rainiest places in Japan. All that moisture nourishes the cedar and cypress forests and feeds the moss on the stone pavement. The pass after a rain is beautifully glistening, but the stones also become slippery. When planning your return trip, give yourself extra time on the descent to be safe.

Work Backward from Sunset and the Last Service

Mountain paths grow dark earlier than the lowlands. In autumn and winter especially, daylight is short, and the inside of the woods can feel dim even before evening.

1. First, check the times for your return train, bus, or taxi
2. Working backward from there, decide how long to spend at the pass and on breaks
3. If you fall behind schedule, have the courage to turn back even if the summit is in sight

Just setting these three things in advance greatly reduces the pressure.

The Downtime After Walking Is Part of the Trip Too

After crossing the pass, you'll want time to rest your feet. Enjoying fresh seafood in the port town of Owase, or sitting down with a warm drink near the station — leaving a little buffer before your return service makes for a gentler end to the journey.

Summary

Magose Pass on the Kumano Kodo is a trail whose preparation changes depending on whether you do a round trip or a through-hike. If you decide 'where to finish' and 'how to get back' before stepping onto the stone pavement, you can enjoy the pass itself with a calm mind. For detailed information on operating hours and schedules, always check official sources before setting out.

Image: 熊野古道中辺路　地蔵 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)