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Direct to the Mountains, Back by Way of a Port Town
Many people searching for the "Kumano Kodo express bus" are probably looking for the easiest way to get from the Kii-Tanabe area deep into the mountains to Kumano Hongu. On the other hand, those searching for "Nachikatsuura tuna lunch" are looking forward to the culinary pleasures of their trip.
These two interests fit together nicely in a single trip. Take the express bus straight to the heart of the mountains on the way in, then enjoy a feast in the seaside town of Nachikatsuura on the way back. This article walks you through how to plan such an itinerary.
Use the Express Bus Not Just to Save Travel Time, but to Gain More Time for Walking
Getting to Kumano Hongu often involves several transfers. Being able to take a nearly direct express bus cuts down on waiting between connections, giving you more time to walk the old road or visit the shrines.
The express bus began as a trial service, so operating days, timetables, and reservation requirements may change. When planning, always check the latest information from the operator. There are really just two things you need to decide here:
- Will you use the express bus only on the way in, or on the way back as well?
- What will you do in Hongu, and where will you end your day?
After Walking Hongu, Head to the Coast via Shingu
Around Kumano Hongu Taisha, you can take your time soaking up the mountain air — visiting the shrine, making a side trip to Oyunohara, or strolling a section of the old road. Setting aside time to soak in the hot springs of the onsen villages is also a great idea.
Instead of retracing your steps on the way back, there is a route that goes from Hongu down to Shingu by bus, then by JR train to Kii-Katsuura. The view from the window, descending from the mountains along the river as the sea gradually comes into view, is itself a fitting conclusion to your trip.
Save the Nachikatsuura Tuna Lunch for "the Next Afternoon"
If you arrive at the port town in the evening after a day of walking, lunch service at many restaurants may already be over. That's why we recommend spending a night in Katsuura and having tuna for lunch the following day.
- Day 1: Take the express bus to Hongu, enjoy the old road, shrine visits, and hot springs. In the evening, head to the Katsuura side and stay overnight.
- Day 2: Spend a relaxed morning at the port or hot springs, then have a tuna lunch in Nachikatsuura. Afterward, head toward Nachisan.
Placing lunch at the end of your trip as a "reward" lets the previous day's fatigue melt away pleasantly. You'll find menus full of port-town favorites like tuna donburi and set meals, but opening days, hours, and menus vary by restaurant. It's safest to decide where to eat based on information available on the day of your visit.
These Three Items Are All You Need
- Small change and a bit of cash: Handy for buses and small eateries.
- An extra layer: The temperature can feel very different between the mountains and the coast.
- Comfortable walking shoes: Useful for the stone-paved old road as well as strolls through the port town.
Connecting Mountain and Sea in a Single Line
The appeal of a Kumano trip lies in how close the sacred mountains and the bounty of the sea are to each other. Zip up into the mountains by express bus, walk, and finish with tuna by the sea. With this flow, a single trip lets you fully experience what makes Kumano special. Just be sure to check the timetable before you set out, and plan an itinerary with some room to spare.
Image: 熊野古道 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)
