Kumano Kodo in June: Savoring the Dampness | A Guide to Moss-Covered Stone Paths in the Rainy Season, and Preparing for Humidity, Insects, and Slippery Footing

Kumano Kodo in June: A Month for Savoring the Dampness Rather Than Waiting for Sunshine

June on the Kumano Kodo falls right in the middle of the rainy season. Some travelers worry that "there might be too much rain," but from a local's perspective, this is the season when the ancient trail looks its most moist and alive.

Moss spreads at the foot of cedar groves, the stone paths deepen in color when wet, and the sound of streams drifts up from the valleys. Unlike the crisp scenery of clear days, June on the Kumano Kodo offers a beauty unique to the region—the beauty of dampness.

How to Enjoy June on the Kodo

1. Observe the "Layers of Green" in the Moss and Foliage

Moss that has absorbed rainwater looks more vividly green than when dry. If you walk with your gaze slightly lowered—toward the stone paths, stone walls, and the bases of cedar trees—you'll notice subtle gradations in the green. Pausing to watch tiny droplets resting on the moss is a luxury unique to the rainy season.

2. Let the "Sounds" Take Center Stage

The patter of raindrops on leaves, the murmur of streams, distant birdsong. When visibility is hazy, your hearing sharpens. If you walk with a little less conversation, your sense of being deep in the forest grows much more vivid.

3. Mist and Clouds Draping the Mountains

When mist settles between the mountains, you may lose the sweeping views, but in their place, scenes reminiscent of ink paintings appear. Think of "not being able to see" as just another expression of the Kodo, and enjoy it that way.

Three Things to Watch Out for in June

Humidity: Expect to Sweat

Wearing rain gear traps heat and moisture, so you'll sweat even when the temperature isn't particularly high. Hydrate and replenish salt frequently, and bring along a dry layer for breaks so you don't catch a chill from sweat-dampened clothing.

Insects and Creatures: Don't Expose Too Much Skin

On humid mountain trails, you'll need to watch out for mosquitoes, other insects, and, in some areas, mountain leeches (yamabiru). Bring insect repellent and keep skin exposure to a minimum. Avoid taking breaks in grassy areas, and give your feet and cuffs a quick check once you've finished walking.

Footing: Stone Paths and Tree Roots Are Slipperier Than You'd Think

Wet stone paths, moss, and tree roots become especially slippery on downhill sections. Taking smaller steps and planting your whole foot on the ground helps keep you stable. The best safety measure of all is simply not rushing your itinerary.

Planning Without Overdoing It

• Choose shorter sections: In June, "short and immersive" tends to work better than "long and ambitious."
• Check the previous day's rainfall too: Even if it's just drizzling on your hiking day, trails can be muddy and streams swollen after heavy rain the day before.
• Keep checking the forecast until the last minute: If warnings are issued or the weather turns severe, have the courage to change your plans.
• Finish before sunset: Rain clouds make the mountains grow dark earlier than you might expect. Give yourself plenty of time.

A Reward After Walking—Also Enjoyed with the Dampness

After hiking in the rain, warming up in a hot spring is the Kumano way. A soak resets both the chill and the sweat, making hot springs a perfect match for a rainy-season trip. Bring a bag for wet clothes and a spare pair of socks, and your journey home will be far more comfortable.

In Summary

June on the Kumano Kodo becomes dramatically more appealing the moment you stop treating rain as a nuisance and start seeing it as part of the scenery. To savor the moss, sounds, and mist unique to the rainy season, prioritize your footing and your health, and set out with a relaxed plan. When the sun peeks through the clouds, the dappled light streaming through the trees is sure to feel truly special.

Image: 熊野古道中辺路　大門坂 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)