
When you search for how to get to the Kumano Kodo, most of the information you'll find is about trains and buses. But plenty of travelers would rather drive, for the freedom it offers. Here, we focus on something surprisingly tricky when you drive — how to get back to your car after you've finished walking — and build your plan around that.
For drivers, the "exit" matters more than the "entrance"
The Kumano Kodo is a "linear" trail that leads from one point to another. If you park at the start, your goal will be somewhere else entirely. That's the big difference from an ordinary loop hike that brings you back to where you began.
When driving, instead of first deciding "where to start," decide "how you'll get from the finish point back to your car." Settle this in advance, and you'll avoid a lot of confusion on the day.
Three ways drivers can "get back"
1. Out-and-back (walk partway and return the same way)
The simplest option is to walk out for a while and then turn around. Even on the same trail, scenery you looked up at on the way out looks different on the way back — one of the quiet pleasures of the old road. Timing is easy to estimate, making this a good choice for first-timers or days when you'd rather not move your car.
2. Walk one way, then take a bus or taxi back to your car
If you want to walk a full section one way, you can combine the walk with public transport or a local taxi. Many routes in the mountains run infrequently, so always check the latest schedules before you set out. Being able to work backward from "if I arrive by this time, I'll have a ride home" takes a lot of pressure off.
3. Choose a short section that's easy to access by car
If you pick a short stretch — a portion of a mountain pass, or a section near a shrine — where the start and end are close together, moving between them is much easier. On days when you'd like just a half-day taste of the old road, these shorter sections are reliable options.
Things to check before you set off
- Where you can park, and how many spaces there are: Lots near oji shrines and trailheads can be limited. Check the latest information.
- Whether a ride back is available: If you plan to use buses or taxis, check schedules and whether reservations are needed in advance.
- Time of sunset: Mountain trails get dark earlier than you'd expect. Allow plenty of time to make it back to your car.
- Phone signal and navigation: Reception can be unstable in mountainous areas. Download maps in advance for peace of mind.
Tips for enjoying the drive, Kumano-style
Getting to the Kumano area usually means a long drive on winding mountain roads. Rather than starting to walk the moment you arrive, pausing for a break along the way to reset your body makes those first steps on the old road feel much better.
If you have passengers, it's a good idea to talk ahead of time about swapping drivers often. You'll be tired after walking, so planning to lighten the driver's load on the return trip matters.
In summary
The shortcut to planning a Kumano Kodo drive is to start with how you'll get back, not where you'll start. Will you savor it as an out-and-back? Combine walking with a bus to go all the way through? Or pick a short section? Once you've chosen a return method that fits your stamina and schedule, the rest of your plan will fall into place. Build in a little extra time, and take the roads of Kumano at a relaxed pace.
Image: 熊野古道中辺路 高原 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)
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