Kumano Kodo Nakahechi, Chikatsuyu-oji

April on the Kumano Kodo: A Month When the Seasons Line Up Along the Slopes

If there's one way to describe April on the Kumano Kodo, it would be a month when the seasons stagger themselves gently along the elevations. In the lower areas near the sea, the greens have already deepened, while in the higher mountain reaches, the buds are only just beginning to open. Simply walking a single trail lets you experience the different stages of spring's progress.

Winter's crisp stillness has eased, yet summer's humidity is still a way off. I think it's one of the easiest times to honestly enjoy the pleasure of walking through cedar groves.

Scenery You're Likely to Encounter on the April Trails

The Contrast Between Lingering Mountain Cherries and Cedar Green

Around the time the village cherry blossoms are ending, pale-colored mountain cherries sometimes appear scattered across the mountainsides. The soft pink that suddenly emerges amid the deep green of the cedars is a scene unique to the old pilgrimage trails. However, since the blooming period shifts from year to year and place to place, it's best not to count on seeing them—walking with the attitude of "it's a lovely surprise if I do" strikes just the right balance.

Young Leaves in the Deciduous Woods, Moss on the Stone Paths

Between the evergreens of cedar and cypress, the deciduous trees begin to burst into young leaves all at once. The soft yellow-green takes on a faint translucence when the light passes through. The colors of the moss and stone paths deepen with the spring rains, too—it's a season when even what's underfoot becomes part of the scenery.

Walking Conditions Change with Elevation and Time of Day

Mornings and Evenings Are Colder Than You'd Expect

Even when April days are comfortable, mornings in the mountain valleys can feel chilly. You may start out feeling cool and find yourself sweating as you walk, so being mindful of "setting out in a state where you can easily adjust your body temperature" will help you feel more at ease. For specifics on how to choose your clothing, please also refer to our separate article on layering strategies.

Days Grow Longer, but Dusk Comes Early in the Mountains

Spring brings longer days, but valleys and cedar forests darken earlier than you'd think. Rather than pushing on with "it's still light, just a bit further," working backward from your bus or lodging times and finishing your walk with plenty of time to spare is the trick to savoring the spring trails comfortably.

Spring-Specific Points to Keep in Mind

Weather Changes Easily

Spring weather tends to shift in cycles, and rainy days are not uncommon. While rain can make the scenery feel clearer, it also makes stone paths and tree roots slippery. Keeping an eye on the previous day's weather and trail conditions, and building a little flexibility into your plans, will help you avoid feeling rushed.

A Little Preparation for Pollen and Sunlight

In mountains thick with cedar, pollen may be a concern for some. The sunlight also grows surprisingly stronger around this time, so adding a hat or some sun protection will make things easier.

Crowds Vary Day by Day

Late April tends to see increasing visitors as the Golden Week holidays approach. If you'd like to walk in quiet, consider choosing weekdays or early mornings. Transportation and lodging conditions vary from year to year, so checking the latest information early will give you peace of mind.

How to Approach a Spring Walk

In Closing

April on the Kumano Kodo is a season when, poised between winter's remnants and summer's first hints, the colors of new growth spread gently across the landscape. Since the scenery and how you feel both shift with elevation and time of day, walking while wondering "which height of spring will I meet today?" adds a deeper flavor to even the same path. Please take your time and enjoy the spring trails with an easygoing plan.

Image: 熊野古道中辺路　近露王子 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)