
One of winter's great traditions at Kawayu Onsen is the Sennin-buro, a massive open-air bath that appears right on the banks of the Otonashi River. But when it comes time to actually go, a surprisingly tricky question pops up: "How many towels should I bring?"
Unlike the indoor baths at a traditional inn, the Sennin-buro is set outdoors where the river breeze blows freely. That's why it helps to think of towels not just as something to dry off with, but also as gear to keep the cold at bay. Here's a local's take on how to pack them.
A riverside bath means towels have more jobs to do
At an indoor public bath, a single towel is usually enough. But in a riverside open-air bath, the outside air hits you the moment you step out of the water. Even on a mild winter day in Kumano, the air along the river can feel surprisingly crisp.
Drying your wet body, wrapping up chilled shoulders, and keeping wet items separate — once you think about these three roles, the right number of towels starts to become clear.
When in doubt, bring 3 towels for 3 purposes
① A towel for drying off
This is the essential one — the towel you use first to wipe away the water right after your bath. A larger, highly absorbent towel works best.
② A larger towel to warm your shoulders and head
This one is for fighting off the chill after you get out. A large towel or bath towel you can drape over your shoulders is a lifesaver. Having something to wrap around wet hair is also reassuring, so you aren't left with a damp head in the cold air.
③ A spare towel for feet and small items
This one gets more use than you'd expect. Wiping wet feet, drying your hands or small belongings, wrapping up damp towels on the way home — a smaller spare keeps the inside of your bag from getting soaked.
Assume you'll be carrying wet towels home
If you just toss used towels straight into your bag, the dampness will spread to everything else inside. Bringing a plastic bag or zip-top pouch along makes the trip home much more comfortable.
Around Kumano Hongu, many travelers get around slowly by bus or car, so a little preparation to keep seats and interiors dry is a nice touch to think about in advance.
Even if you're not bathing, one towel is reassuring
If you're just there to look around or take photos, a towel or scarf-like wrap to warm your neck and hands still comes in handy, since the breeze travels right along the riverbank. Step close to the rising steam and you may find your hair and jacket getting a bit damp from the moisture in the air.
A few things to check before you go
The Sennin-buro is a seasonal, event-style bath, and the rules for bathing, available facilities, and whether towels can be rented may change from year to year. Before heading out, be sure to check the latest information from the local tourism association or official guides for the specifics — whether to bring your own towels, rules about swimwear, where to change, and other details.
In summary: Think of towels as cold-weather gear
For a visit to the Sennin-buro at Kawayu Onsen, three towels — one for drying, one for wrapping up, and one spare — is a good rule of thumb. To fully enjoy the open-air freedom of this riverside bath, make sure you're prepared enough not to come up short. That quiet moment of settling in after your bath, listening to the sound of the river, is one of winter's finest treats in Kumano.
Image: 川湯温泉 仙人風呂 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)
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