Wakayama Photo Library

Sunrise at Hashigui-iwa: A Quiet Beginning to a Kumano Journey

At the southernmost tip of Wakayama Prefecture, along the coast of Kushimoto Town, there is a place where rock pillars stand in a long line heading out to sea. This is Hashigui-iwa, designated as a national Place of Scenic Beauty and Natural Monument.

Before dawn, the sea gradually shifts from deep indigo to crimson, and against this backdrop the silhouettes of the rocks emerge. The sunrise at Hashigui-iwa is a scene without flashy drama — simply the morning light reaching the row of rocks — yet it is enough to still the mind. It is a morning worth building into your itinerary, before or after walking the Kumano Kodo.

What Kind of Place Is Hashigui-iwa?

The Legend of Kobo Daishi and Amanojaku

A local legend tells that Kobo Daishi and the mischievous demon Amanojaku competed to see if a bridge could be built to the offshore island in a single night. Amanojaku mimicked the crow of a rooster to interfere, and so the bridge was left unfinished. That, so the story goes, is why the rocks break off partway. Recalling this old tale while waiting for the sunrise makes those dim seaside moments feel all the more enjoyable.

A Line of Rocks Reaching Toward the Sea

The rock pillars run in an almost straight line from the shore toward Kii-Oshima Island offshore. Because they look like the piles of a bridge, the place came to be known as Hashigui-iwa — literally, "bridge-pile rocks."

How the Sunrise Looks Changes with the Season

The position where the sun rises shifts slightly throughout the year. In winter, the sunrise point moves further south, bringing it closer to the alignment of the rocks — making it easier to catch a composition in which the light appears to shine from the far end of the row. In summer, the sun rises further north, lighting the rocks from an angle.

Sunrise times vary day by day, so it is reassuring to check the weather forecast and sunrise time the day before. If there are clouds near the horizon, you may miss the exact moment the sun appears — but the time when those clouds are dyed vermilion also offers a beauty unique to this place.

Things to Watch Out for on the Morning Shore

Tides and Footing

At low tide, you can sometimes walk close to the rocks. However, the rocks are wet and slippery, and as the tide comes in, your way back may narrow. Check the tide times in advance and do not force your way closer than is safe. On days with high waves or strong winds, admire the view from a distance.

Preparing While It Is Still Dark

Before sunrise it is hard to see your footing, so a light and non-slip shoes are reassuring. Sea breezes can make it feel colder than expected, so regardless of season, bringing a jacket to layer on is recommended.

Consideration for Others

The shore in the early morning is a quiet place. Be mindful of car doors and voices, and always take your trash with you. When taking photos, choose a position that does not get in the way of other visitors.

How to Spend Time After Sunrise

Once you have witnessed the morning light, try taking a walk nearby. The same rocks shift in color as the sun rises, and you will notice how utterly different they look from their daytime face. With a warm drink in hand, you can linger and watch the sea at your own pace.

Afterward, a nice flow is to explore the shores around Kushimoto, have breakfast, and then move on to other areas of Kumano. Walking the Kumano Kodo takes real stamina, so on days when you watch the sunrise, it is wise to focus on travel rather than hiking, and build a relaxed day that will not wear you out.

In Closing

The sunrise at Hashigui-iwa is a quiet convergence of the Kushimoto sea, its rocks, and the morning light. Keeping in mind the seasonal position of the sun, the state of the tides, and the safety of your footing, rise early and head out. Whether it is day one or day two of your Kumano journey, you will surely begin it with a calm and settled heart.

Image: 和歌山フォトライブラリー (via 和歌山フォトライブラリー)