Wakayama Photo Library

Chokyu Sakaba: A Tavern Loved by Locals in Shirahama

Shirahama, in Wakayama Prefecture, is well known as a hot spring resort. While glamorous shops lining the streets cater to tourists, there are also quieter, timeworn taverns that locals keep coming back to. One of them is Chokyu Sakaba. Preserving its old-fashioned atmosphere, it is cherished as a place where you can casually enjoy local fish and regional cuisine unique to the Nanki area.

Shirahama is famous for its white sandy beaches, the sea, and hot springs that have been known since ancient times. During the day, the beachfront and hot spring town bustle with visitors, but the town's true character often emerges after sunset. As restaurants catering to tourists quiet down, lights flicker on in taverns tucked down back alleys, and people returning from work gather there. On the counter menu, the word "utsubo" (moray eel) appears quietly among the offerings.

While seafood bowls and spiny lobster are popular with tourists, moray eel is one of the ingredients most beloved by locals. Its striking appearance often surprises people, but in the southern Kishu region, it has long been a treasured local ingredient passed down through generations.

This article follows the flow of a journey, centered on Chokyu Sakaba's signature moray eel dishes. We'll explore the background of this fish, the food culture of Nanki, how to enjoy each cooking method, pairings with drinks, how to enjoy a tavern, and travel tips for the Shirahama and Kumano area. Whether you're trying moray eel for the first time or already familiar with the flavors of Nanki, we hope this will enrich your evenings on the road.

Before You Visit
Business hours, closing days, menus, and prices may change depending on supply, season, and circumstances. Please check the latest information before visiting. This article focuses on general information that can be reliably shared, along with existing descriptions of the establishment.

Between Tourist Glamour and Everyday Local Life

Shirahama is one of Japan's premier seaside hot spring resorts. While there are areas lined with large accommodations, hotels, and souvenir shops, step just a little into the side streets and you'll find local eateries, small taverns, and shops used by residents in their everyday lives.

When dining while traveling, it's tempting to choose "famous spots for tourists." That has its own appeal, but a dish eaten in a place close to local life carries the atmosphere of the land itself. Chokyu Sakaba is one such tavern that has attracted traveler interest as a place to encounter these "flavors close to daily life."

The Charm of Tavern Culture

Japanese taverns are places not only to enjoy food, but also where people loosely connect with one another. You might casually exchange words with the person next to you at the counter, or hear the staff recommend, "This is good today." Such exchanges transform travel memories from mere "I ate there" into "that night at that place" stories.

The Tavern as the "Town's Living Room"

Regional taverns are not just places to eat and drink. They serve as a kind of "town living room," where people pause after work to share neighborhood news, talk about the day's catch, or discuss the weather. If restaurants in tourist spots are places that "host travelers," then taverns are "extensions of daily life." Taking a seat with the mindset that you're politely dropping in on local life will help you blend in with the atmosphere.

Encountering everyday flavors that rarely appear in tourist guides—that's the greatest appeal of visiting local haunts in a town like Shirahama that so many people visit.

The Pleasure of Reading the Menu

A tavern menu is like a note that reflects the sea of the day. On the paper strips posted on the wall, you'll find seasonal fish and ingredients that happened to come in. It's natural that the offerings change from day to day, even at the same shop.

If moray eel appears on the menu, don't hesitate to order it. We also recommend ordering small plates, mixing in other fish. Using the staff's words—"we got this in today"—as a guide, you can encounter flavors that are unique to that particular day.

Moray Eel: A Nanki Delicacy and Signature Dish

What you shouldn't miss at Chokyu Sakaba is moray eel cuisine, known as a delicacy of the Nanki region. Despite its striking appearance, the flesh is refined and rich in umami, and it's full of collagen. In the Kumano and Kinan areas, it has long been enjoyed as a dish for celebrations and as an accompaniment to sake.

There are various preparations—fried, seared tataki, jellied, and more. The crispy fried moray eel, which requires skilled craftsmanship to deal with the many bones, pairs excellently with beer or local sake.

What Kind of Fish Is a Moray Eel?

Moray eels are long, slender saltwater fish belonging to the family Muraenidae. They lurk in warm sea reefs, coral reefs, and crevices among rocks. During the day they hide in rocky holes, and at night they become active, hunting small fish, crustaceans, and octopus. With their wide, gaping mouths and sharp teeth, they are a familiar sight for divers—often popular photo subjects—as they peek out from rock crevices.

Seeing one for the first time, you might think, "We eat that?" That's a perfectly natural reaction. However, as a food ingredient, moray eel is quite different from its appearance. The skin is gelatinous and plump, and while the flesh is mild, umami emerges the more you chew. When cooked, it develops a distinctive springiness and sweetness, holds its shape well whether fried or simmered, and lends itself to a wide range of preparations.

The experience of "a food you avoided based on looks becoming a favorite after one bite" is one of the great joys of travel. Moray eel may be the easiest ingredient to experience that kind of surprise.

A Note on the Name's Origin

There are several theories about the origin of the name "utsubo." A commonly cited one is that its shape resembles the "utsubo," a traditional quiver for carrying arrows on one's back. Its long, cylindrical body is said to recall an arrow case. However, there are multiple theories, and none is definitive. Imagining the origin of the name while you eat makes for a good conversation starter at the tavern.

The Nanki Sea and Its Connection to Moray Eel

The coastline of southern Wakayama Prefecture—the so-called Kinan region—faces a warm sea influenced by the Kuroshio Current. The intricate rocky coastline, abundant seaweed, and the small fish, shrimp, and crabs that gather there create an ideal environment for rock-dwelling fish like moray eel. For this reason, moray eel has long been a familiar fish in this region, appearing on the tables of fishing town residents.

Particularly in coastal areas such as Shirahama, Kushimoto, and Susami, moray eel is not seen as some unusual oddity, but rather as a familiar ingredient. Rather than being a standard menu item for tourists, it's a connoisseur's choice that locals naturally order. This "ordinariness for locals" is itself the greatest discovery for travelers. That's precisely why cooking methods and seasonings vary from place to place, household to household, and shop to shop, each passed down in its own way.

Why Has It Been Eaten for Generations?

Behind the continued tradition of eating moray eel lies the wisdom of seaside life.

For one, it was a fish that naturally came up in catches. Not every fish caught in nets or traps fetches a good market price. Coastal people have long devised ways to use what was caught without waste and to make it taste good. Moray eel is one such fish.

For another, it is a fish with many bones that requires effort to prepare. For that very reason, the preparation techniques were passed down in homes and shops, taking root as an ingredient where "the extra work makes it delicious." Finely cutting the small bones and handling the skin are skills built on accumulated experience.

Moray eel cuisine was not created as a tourist specialty. It is the everyday food of people who have lived alongside the sea, preserved as it is to this day. That unpretentious quality fits the tavern atmosphere perfectly.

Moray Eel for Celebrations and Drinking

In the Kumano and Kinan area, moray eel has long been enjoyed as a dish for celebrations and as a drinking companion. The powerful character of the fish itself and the sense of occasion that comes from the labor-intensive preparation likely contributed to its acceptance as a food worthy of gatherings.

Moray eel is also a versatile ingredient that can serve both as fare for a "special day" and as everyday drinking food. Before refrigeration and freezing technology became widespread, preserving fish was a crucial challenge in seaside life. Moray eel, too, was traditionally enjoyed as a dried product, split open and dried to concentrate the umami, releasing a fragrant aroma when grilled. The umami that emerges as you chew pairs well with both cold and warm sake. Availability varies by shop, so if you see it on the menu, do give it a try.

A Guide to Enjoying Moray Eel Cuisine

Moray eel cuisine takes on completely different characters depending on the cooking method. Here we introduce the most representative preparations along with their general features. The actual offerings and names will vary depending on the day's supply and the shop's style.

Fried: The Standard to Try First

Fried moray eel is the easiest preparation to recommend to first-timers. Coated in batter and fried, the surface becomes crispy and fragrant, the inside flakes tenderly, and the skin takes on a springy, elastic texture. The umami of the moray eel is concentrated, offering a distinctly fish-like flavor different from fried chicken.

Moray eel is a fish with many small bones. To enjoy it in a fried form, careful bone-cutting (honekiri) is essential. This labor-intensive work is why it's called "a dish requiring the artisan's skill to handle the bones." The classic way to enjoy it is fresh from the fryer, paired with beer, highball, or crisp cold sake.

Tataki and Yubiki: Tasting the Ingredient's Character

When you hear "tataki," many people think of bonito tataki, but moray eel tataki is also known in the food cultures of Nanki and Tosa. It's interesting that similar food cultures have developed in regions facing the same Kuroshio sea.

Tataki adds fragrance by searing the surface, while yubiki (blanching) softens the gelatinous skin by briefly dipping it in hot water. Both are generally sliced thinly and served with condiments, ponzu, or vinegared miso. The texture of the skin, the firmness of the flesh, and the sweetness of the fat come through directly—a preparation that lets you taste the ingredient's inherent qualities, different from fried dishes.

Nikogori (Jellied): The Blessing of Collagen

Moray eel is known as a fish rich in gelatin in both skin and flesh. This makes it well-suited for "nikogori," where the cooking liquid naturally sets as it cools. The smooth mouthfeel and well-balanced flavor absorption pair wonderfully with sake or shochu.

It's visually refreshing too, and perfect for sipping drinks slowly. The abundance of collagen is also often mentioned as one of moray eel's appealing qualities.

Nitsuke (Simmered): A Heartwarming Home-Style Flavor

Simmered moray eel is a preparation that lets you fully enjoy the umami of the fish and the richness of the skin. Slowly simmered with soy sauce, sugar, and sake, the flesh falls apart tenderly and the skin becomes melt-in-your-mouth soft. The star is the umami from the gelatinous skin combined with the richness of the broth. It's not flashy, but it has the character of "home cooking" and "a tavern classic"—a dish worthy of leisurely sipping warm sake.

Dried, Nanban-Zuke, Hot Pot, and More

Moray eel has been enjoyed in many preparations: dried, pickled nanban-style, in hot pot, and more. Grilled dried moray eel pairs well with sake, while in hot pot, the umami from the skin and flesh seeps into the broth for a warming bowl.

What all these methods share is the thinking of "how to best bring out the moray eel's character." If you spot moray eel on the menu, do try different preparations.

Tips for Enjoying the Plump Skin Texture

The first thing often mentioned as moray eel's appeal is the texture of the skin. The unique plumpness, hard to find in other fish, comes from its abundant gelatin.

The tip for enjoying it is to eat the skin and flesh together. With just the skin, you focus too much on texture, but combined with the flesh, the balance of umami comes together. Differences by cooking method can be summarized as follows:

Many are surprised at how different the same fish can taste.

How to Enjoy a Tasting

If you visit with others, we also recommend ordering several preparations in small portions to compare. For first-timers, the following flow works well:

1. Start with fried: minimal distinctive flavor, easy to get used to the aroma and texture of the fish
2. Add tataki or blanched: confirm the texture and flavor of the ingredient itself
3. Finish with nikogori, simmered, or dried: fully enjoy the mouthfeel unique to moray eel and the heartfelt umami

Of course, menus vary by shop and depend on the day's supply. You don't need to order everything at once. Order small portions and discover the preparation you like best.

The Craftsmanship Behind the Flavor

For moray eel cuisine to come together as a delicious dish, invisible handiwork is essential.

Technique Lives in the Preparation

Moray eel has a slimy skin and complex bone structure. Its sharp teeth also require familiarity to handle. Thus, butchering requires both knowledge and experience.

Without thorough bone preparation, you'd be bothered by small bones when eating, ruining the flavor. Conversely, properly bone-cut and prepared moray eel allows the umami to spread naturally in your mouth without any sense of the bones. Behind the "delicious" moment lies the chef's years of experience.

Value in the Very Fact That It's Labor-Intensive

In modern times, ingredients that are easy to prepare or pre-processed foods tend to be preferred. In that context, taverns that continue to handle labor-intensive moray eel on a daily basis can be seen as supporters of the regional food culture.

"Because it's labor-intensive, the shops that can serve it are limited." That's precisely why a dish enjoyed at a shop that serves moray eel becomes a valuable experience unique to travel.

Enjoying Pairings with Drinks

The joy of a tavern lies in pairing food with drinks. Moray eel cuisine features a mild white flesh and skin texture, opening up the pleasure of exploring drink pairings. Here we introduce general ideas for drinks that pair well.

Start with Beer, for the Fragrance of Fried Foods

For crispy fried moray eel, cold beer is the classic choice. The refreshing carbonation washes away the oil of fried food, inviting the next bite. It's also a relaxed, easy choice as the first drink to unwind after a day of travel.

Savor It Slowly with Wakayama Local Sake

Wakayama Prefecture is known for plums, citrus, and seafood, but it also has several highly regarded sake breweries. Brands like "Kid" and "Kuroushi" are Wakayama local sake known throughout Japan. However, what's available at the shop depends on the season and supply, so it's best to ask when ordering: "Do you have local sake?" or "What would pair well with moray eel?"

Moray eel's umami tends to pair well with both crisp dry sake and full-bodied, flavorful sake. Rough guidelines for pairings by dish:

Shochu, Umeshu, and Highball as Options

Wakayama is known as a major plum-producing region, and many shops carry umeshu (plum wine). Enjoying it as an aperitif, as a nightcap, or sipping an umeshu soda between courses as a palate cleanser is a very Kishu way to spend an evening. Shochu with hot water or highballs also pair well with fried and simmered dishes, and are casual to enjoy.

For Those Who Don't Drink Alcohol

If you're driving or don't drink alcohol, enjoying food with tea or soft drinks is also a fine way to enjoy a tavern. There's even a benefit of being able to focus on the food and savor the flavors more carefully. Never drink and drive—please use public transportation, taxis, or hotel shuttles.

Nanki Flavors Beyond Moray Eel

Chokyu Sakaba is beloved not only for its moray eel dishes but as a tavern where you can enjoy the bounty of the Kumano sea. Here we introduce ingredients and regional flavors widely enjoyed in the Nanki and Kumano area. Actual menus vary with the shop's situation, so please read this as a guide to "what you'd be delighted to encounter."

Sashimi and Grilled Local Fish

In Nanki, blessed by the Kuroshio Current, various local fish are caught in each season. Dishes with simple preparations—sashimi, grilling, simmering—that highlight the fish's flavor are the heart of tavern cuisine. Since the fish varies by day's catch, asking "What do you recommend today?" can lead to unexpected encounters.

Kumano Regional Cuisine and "Local Produce" Culture

From Kumano to Kinan is a region blessed not just by the sea, but also by the mountains. There's Kumano beef, mountain vegetables, fruits like plums and mandarins, and simple regional dishes like "mehari sushi," rice wrapped in pickled mustard leaves. In the Shingu and Kumano area, saury sushi is also enjoyed as a local flavor.

In this land where sea and mountain meet and both shape the food culture, "eating what's caught locally with locally brewed sake" has taken root as the natural way to eat. Whether you encounter it at a tavern depends on the shop, but a night of enjoying moray eel is not simply an experience of eating something unusual—it's an experience of touching a slice of Kishu life.

Plums and Other Wakayama Specialties

Wakayama Prefecture is nationally known as a plum-producing region. Kishu plums are enjoyed not just as pickled umeboshi, but also as umeshu, in dishes, and as drinking snacks. At taverns, you may encounter dishes using plum paste or umeshu on the menu.

The Joy of Searching for Seasonal Flavors

In the Nanki sea, the starring fish changes with the seasons. As the lineup of landed fish shifts, moray eel has been enjoyed year-round. It's commonly said that fat develops in colder months, making the fish more delicious then, but perceptions of "peak season" vary by person and shop. If you're curious, asking the staff "How is the condition now?" is a good approach.

Mingling with Locals for a Nanki Evening

Stepping away from the tourist bustle, the drink you enjoy in a space where regular locals gather is extraordinary. If you're visiting Shirahama, do enjoy moray eel cuisine and Wakayama local sake at Chokyu Sakaba, a place where you can feel Nanki food culture. It will add a distinctive evening to your Kumano area travel memories.

Peace of Mind for First-Time Tavern Visits

Some may feel that local taverns are "hard to enter" or "nerve-wracking with all the regulars." But with some basic mindset, even travelers can spend a pleasant time.

It's nothing difficult. With the feeling of "excuse me for intruding," local shops will warmly welcome travelers.

Conversation Is Part of the Flavor

At local taverns, casual conversations with the staff and regulars become part of the pleasure of travel. Recommended ways to eat, local dialect, old-time Shirahama, stories of fishing and the catch—none of which would appear in guidebooks. Questions like "Any good scenery around here?" or "How do locals eat this fish?" are perfect conversation starters.

However, conversation shouldn't be forced. On days when you want to savor in silence, you may do so. Within the natural flow of the shop's atmosphere, exchanging a word or two is just the right distance. Such exchanges can later become vivid scenes when you recall the trip.

Solo or Small Groups Welcome

Taverns are also well-suited to solo travel. Sitting at the counter and slowly enjoying fried moray eel and a drink is like a reward for your journey. With two or a small group, sharing several dishes lets you try various flavors. For larger groups, it's safer to inquire by phone in advance.

Photography Etiquette

When taking photos of food, be considerate not to capture other customers in the frame. For photos inside the shop, it's safer to ask the staff beforehand. Please cherish the calm tavern atmosphere while preserving your memories.

For Those Trying Moray Eel for the First Time

"I want to try moray eel, but I'm a bit nervous"—many feel that way. Here are some tips for first-timers.

Don't Judge by Appearance

Once cooked and plated, moray eel usually bears no resemblance to its original form. Fried, it comes out as bite-sized pieces of white fish. There's no need to brace yourself for its appearance.

Start with Fried

When in doubt, we recommend fried. Fried dishes have a flavor profile close to what people are used to, and you can moderately experience the fish's character. For fish with many bones, frying can make the bones less noticeable, which also contributes to its popularity for easy eating. From there, gradually expand your range of challenges with tataki, nikogori, simmered, and so on.

Try Putting the Flavor into Words

Moray eel is often described as "mild yet richly umami," "with gelatinous, plump texture in the skin," and "with pleasant firmness in the flesh." As you actually eat, try finding your own words for the impression—it will stay with you as a travel memory.

Allergies and Health Considerations

If you have seafood allergies or health concerns, don't force yourself—consult the staff in advance. When trying a new ingredient for the first time, starting with a small amount is safer.

Moray Eel and the Sustainable Bounty of the Sea

Moray eel is one of the sea's blessings that local fishermen have engaged with for generations. Here we touch briefly on the relationship with the sea revealed through food.

The Continuity of Regional Fishing and Life

In Nanki's coastal towns, fishing is inseparable from local life. Fishermen take fish from the sea, local markets and taverns receive them, and they reach people's tables. This circulation has shaped the region's food culture.

Even fish like moray eel, little known nationally, have been carefully passed down as food within this circulation. Enjoying such a dish at a local tavern is also a small step in supporting the regional food culture.

Finish Your Food, Eat with Gratitude

Because dishes are served after labor-intensive preparation, finishing them without leftovers is the greatest form of respect. When ordering, consider the number of people and the amount you can eat, and choose within reasonable bounds. Even while traveling, let's cherish the spirit of "itadakimasu" (thanks for the meal) and "gochisousama" (thank you for the feast).

Daytime Highlights in the Shirahama and Kumano Area

To fully enjoy an evening at the tavern, spending the day touring Shirahama and Kumano's sights is recommended. Here we introduce generally well-known tourist spots.

Shirarahama and the Shirahama Shore

Shirarahama is the signature scenic spot of Shirahama. The coastline with its fine white sand bustles not only in the summer swimming season, but with strollers in all seasons. Walking along the beach bathed in dusk light quietly elevates your travel mood.

Sandanbeki and Senjojiki

Shirahama is also dotted with magnificent landscapes carved by the sea's power. Sandanbeki, with its sheer cliffs, and Senjojiki, where vast rock surfaces are washed by waves, are Shirahama sightseeing classics. The rugged rocky scenery evokes the reef habitats where moray eels live. Experiencing the sea's harshness and bounty firsthand will make the evening's dish all the more flavorful.

Engetsu Island and the Sunset

Engetsu Island, with a hole in its center, is a landscape symbolic of Shirahama. In the evening, it's famous as a place to watch the setting sun through the hole, and is popular with photography enthusiasts. The flow of viewing the sunset before heading to the tavern is a luxury unique to Shirahama.

The Historic Shirahama Hot Springs

Shirahama Onsen is said to be counted among the "Three Ancient Hot Springs of Japan" along with Dogo Onsen and Arima Onsen, with a long history mentioned in old literature. Open-air baths overlooking the sea let you soak while listening to the sound of waves. The flow of warming your body in the evening bath and then heading to the tavern is a Shirahama luxury. There are also facilities offering day-use bathing, though operations vary by facility.

Kumano Kodo and Kumano Sanzan

Venturing a bit from Shirahama, you'll find the world of the Kumano Kodo—part of the UNESCO World Heritage "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range"—and the Kumano Sanzan (Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha). Long revered as a "land of rebirth," Kumano is a special place where deep forest, sea, and history layer upon each other.

Walking the ancient path, you can experience the quietness of the mountains and the weight of history of pilgrimage routes. By day, touch nature and the world of faith; by night, enjoy local flavors at a Shirahama tavern. Moving between the "sacred" and the "everyday," encountering both mountain faith and sea bounty, makes for a quintessentially Kumano journey.

Enjoying Animals and Nature

The Shirahama area has facilities where you can interact with animals and spots to observe sea creatures. For families and groups of friends, combining nature and animal interactions by day with Nanki flavors at a tavern by night is also appealing. The experience of observing sea creatures like moray eels from an ecological perspective, then tasting them at the dinner table, deepens your understanding of the ingredients.

How to Think About Access to Chokyu Sakaba

Since specific travel times and schedules may change, here we introduce general approaches.

Getting to Shirahama

Shirahama is accessible by rail, plane, or car. From the Kansai region, taking the limited express on the JR Kisei Main Line (Kinokuni Line) to Shirahama Station is a representative route, with ocean views from parts of the window that make the journey itself a pleasure. From farther areas such as the Tokyo region, flying into Nanki Shirahama Airport is also an option, and the proximity of the airport to the city and hot spring town makes it attractive even for short visits. For driving, access combines expressways and local roads, offering flexibility for touring Kumano Kodo and surrounding scenic spots.

Overnight Stays Recommended for Enjoying Taverns

Since most taverns operate at night, day trips come with travel-time constraints. If you plan to drink, you cannot drive, so planning an overnight stay is essential. If you drive to Shirahama, it's wise to leave your car at your accommodation and head to the tavern by taxi or on foot.

Spending both day and night in Shirahama with at least one overnight stay greatly increases travel satisfaction. One idea is to alternate between enjoying the seafood of your inn's dinner one night and enjoying local flavors at an outside tavern another. With two or more nights, scheduling the first night at the inn and the second night at the tavern works well.

Confirming Local Transportation

At night, buses may run less frequently or stop operating. Confirm your return transportation and final departure times in advance with your inn or transportation providers. If using a taxi, knowing how to make reservations or request dispatch will help you return smoothly.

Finding the Tavern

For Chokyu Sakaba's location and operating status, it's safer to check the latest information in advance and inquire if necessary. At popular establishments, you may not be able to enter during busy times, or the dishes offered may vary with supply. If you have a specific dish in mind, confirming in advance is wise.

Model Travel Plans

Here we introduce model plans for the Shirahama and Kumano area, centered on an evening at Chokyu Sakaba. Travel times and operating hours may change, so please use these only as general guides.

1 Night, 2 Days: Relaxing in Shirahama with Nanki Flavors

Day 1

Day 2

2 Nights, 3 Days: Connecting Shirahama and Kumano

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

Since walking the Kumano Kodo requires stamina, keep drinking moderate the night before and keep the next day's plans reasonable.

Food-Centered Travel: An Evening Around the Tavern

If food is the main focus, it's ideal to keep lunch light and head to the tavern in the evening. Entering early, right at opening time, often means more seat availability and more chances to chat with the staff. Keep your first drink light, then progress gradually from fried to tataki to simmered, so you can savor the full variety of moray eel cuisine.

A Plan for Solo Travel

For solo travel, a day leisurely spent at the sea and hot spring, with an evening drink at the tavern counter, suits well. Rather than packing your schedule, leaving room to drop by places that catch your interest may lead to unexpected encounters.

Enjoying Nanki by Season

Shirahama and Kumano offer different appeal in each season. How you enjoy the tavern changes with the seasons too.

Spring: The Season When Sea and Mountain Greens Awaken

Spring is a mild-weather season well-suited to strolling. It's a good time to walk the shore by day and spend leisurely time at the tavern by night, weaving warm and cool dishes together. The lineup of local fish gradually changes, and new seasonal fish start appearing on menus at some shops.

Summer: Sea Leisure and Cold Beer

Summer is the season for sea bathing and marine leisure. Enjoy the sea to the fullest by day, and in the evening, finish refreshingly with fried moray eel or tataki and cold beer. However, as tourist numbers increase, popular taverns may be crowded. Plan with plenty of time.

Autumn: The Season of Harvest and Festivals

Autumn is the appetite-stirring season when mountain and sea harvests overlap. With comfortable weather, both daytime strolls and evening taverns can be enjoyed in good balance, and it's also known as a suitable season for walking the Kumano Kodo. In the Kumano region, festivals are held in various places, bringing local life closer. It's the time when warm sake starts to appeal, and simmered dishes and dried fish suit the season.

Winter: Hot Springs, Hot Pot, and Warm Taverns

Winter is the season when hot springs feel especially welcome. Thoroughly warming your body, then enjoying warm sake and simmered dishes at the tavern is a winter luxury. Generally, fish are said to have better fat content in cold weather, and moray eel is sometimes said to tighten up and become more delicious in winter. However, since this varies by individual fish and fishing conditions, enjoy it while consulting the menu. The warmth of the tavern after being blown by winter sea winds makes for a travel memory.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. Can moray eel really be eaten?

Yes, it can be eaten. In regions including Nanki, it has long been used as food. With appropriate preparation, you can enjoy its refined, umami-rich flavor, quite different from what the appearance suggests.

Q. Does it have a distinctive taste?

It's generally known as a mild yet umami-rich white fish. Gelatin in the skin and flesh gives it a distinctive texture. Impressions vary by cooking method, so starting with easily approachable options like fried is recommended.

Q. Are the bones bothersome?

Moray eel has many small bones, but at taverns they are typically served after bone-cutting and other preparation. With careful preparation, dishes are designed to be eaten without concern. If you're worried, ask the staff about how to eat it and any precautions.

Q. Is it easy to go alone?

Regional taverns are places many solo customers visit. At counter seats, you can spend time comfortably alone. However, during busy times you may be seated at a shared table or counter. If concerned, try shifting your visit time.

Q. Are reservations necessary?

Whether reservations are accepted or needed varies by shop policy and season. Small shops and popular establishments may not accept reservations, or may have limited seating. To ensure you can eat or if visiting with a group, confirming in advance is safer.

Q. Can I enjoy it with children?

Whether children can comfortably be brought varies by shop atmosphere and operating style. Shops primarily focused on alcohol may be difficult, so if you plan to bring children, consult the shop in advance.

Q. Can moray eel be eaten in any season?

The timing of offerings and types of dishes vary depending on supply and shop policy. If you have a specific dish in mind, checking before your visit is more reliable.

Q. What should I eat alongside moray eel?

Seasonal seafood caught in the Nanki sea, small dishes using plums, and local vegetable dishes are candidates. Looking at the day's menu and asking the staff for recommendations is most reliable.

Q. Can I buy moray eel as a souvenir?

There are processed products such as dried moray eel for sale. Whether available depends on the shop, local markets, or souvenir shops. If interested, search for it during your trip.

What Moray Eel Teaches Us About Local Food

Taking an interest in moray eel cuisine is also learning the attitude of "not judging local food by appearance or fame alone."

Famous specialties in tourist spots are easy to understand and attractive. On the other hand, dishes that locals have eaten every day contain the land's climate, sea conditions, and life wisdom concentrated within them. Moray eel is a prime example.

Not "eat because it's unusual," but eat with an understanding of why it's been eaten in this land. Then even the same dish takes on deeper flavor. Shirahama's taverns are places that give you such realizations.

Making Chokyu Sakaba a Travel Memory

Travel memories are shaped not only by scenery, but by flavors, scents, and conversations with people. Gazing at the Shirahama sea, soothing your body in the hot spring, and tasting Nanki flavors at a local tavern in the evening—within that flow, moray eel cuisine is something that makes you feel "I could only encounter this here."

What You'll Want to Recall at the End of Your Journey

On the train or in the car on the way home, when you look back on the trip, what likely stays with you may be small events at places you casually dropped by, rather than famous tourist spots. A casual conversation with the person next to you at the tavern, a word from the staff, the fragrant smell of freshly fried moray eel. Each of these becomes the story of your travel.

A Doorway to Your Next Journey

Encountering moray eel cuisine is also a doorway to Nanki's sea and food culture. Once you've tried it, you'll likely find yourself envisioning the continuation of your journey: "next in a different season," "next into deeper Kumano."

Summary

Shirahama as a tourist destination is appealing too, but an evening spent at a shop loved by locals makes travel even deeper. When visiting the Kumano area, do taste moray eel cuisine and Wakayama local sake at Chokyu Sakaba, and experience a distinctive Nanki evening. Looking forward to encountering a dish you've yet to meet—why not head out into the Shirahama night?

*Content was revised and updated on October 12, 2026.*

Image: 和歌山フォトライブラリー (via 和歌山フォトライブラリー)