Walking the Phoenix Folds of Susami Town | An Introduction to the Earth's Ripples at Nanki Kumano Geopark, Read with a Guide

What are Susami Town's Phoenix Folds?

Southern Kii (Nanki) is best known for the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes and hot springs, but along the coast there are places where you can see 'the making of the land' up close. One of the most iconic is Susami Town's Phoenix Folds (fenikkusu shūkyoku).

A fold is a stratum that was originally stacked horizontally but was pushed from the side and bent into wave-like shapes. The Phoenix Folds got their name because the curved bands of strata resemble the spreading fronds of a tropical phoenix palm. Gazing at the curves etched into the rock, you can't help but be amazed by the mystery of how something as hard as stone could bend so gracefully.

Its Place within the Nanki Kumano Geopark

The Nanki Kumano Geopark, which includes Susami Town, is an area that connects strata, rock formations, and the lives of people in the mountains and sea through 'the story of the earth.' The strata here are explained as sand and mud that accumulated on the ocean floor long ago, then pushed up by plate movement to become part of the land. The Phoenix Folds are an easy-to-understand example that lets you see with your own eyes how those forces acted.

How to Read the Strata: 3 Points

1. First, look for the 'stripes'

When sandy and muddy layers stack alternately, stripe patterns appear on the rock face. Start by tracing these stripes with your eyes.

2. Find the 'peaks' and 'valleys' of the folds

Spot the places where the stripes rise upward and sag downward, and it becomes easier to imagine the direction from which the pressure came.

3. Step back and view the whole

The closer you get, the more details you see, but the scale of the undulations comes across better from a slight distance. When taking photos, it's a good idea to capture several shots from varying distances.

The View Changes When You Walk with a Guide

Strata are a landscape you can 'read' better the more you know. At the Nanki Kumano Geopark, there are opportunities to be accompanied by a local geo-guide. Whether tours are running and how to apply varies from time to time, so check with the geopark-related desk or the Susami Town tourist information center before you head out. Listening to explanations as you walk transforms mere rock into 'a record of tens of millions of years.'

Before You Go

• Watch out for waves and tides: Rocky shorelines change in danger level depending on weather and tide. Don't push your luck on days with high waves.
• Wear non-slip footwear: Wet rocks are more slippery than you'd expect.
• Don't collect specimens: The rocks and fossils in the geopark are precious local resources. Leave them in place and enjoy them through photos.
• Follow local rules: Observe the boundaries of accessible areas and any posted signs.

Tips for Planning Your Trip

Susami Town sits between Shirahama and Kushimoto, making it a great fit for a coastal drive. After viewing the strata, take your time enjoying the seaside scenery or stopping by for local seafood. Combined with a 'walking journey' along the Kumano Kodo, you can experience two timelines at once — the path of faith and the history of the earth.

Standing before the bent strata, quietly contemplating the vast time of the earth — this kind of slightly nerdy, deeply rewarding detour will make your Nanki journey one notch more interesting.

Image: 荒船海岸 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)