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Nagai-zaka in Susami Town: The Kumano Kodo Ohechi Route Where the Sea Takes Center Stage
When people think of the Kumano Kodo, many picture the deep mountain trails of the Nakahechi route. But the Ohechi route, which heads south along the coast from Tanabe, loops around toward Kushimoto, and continues on to Kumano, offers a completely different character.
Among the Ohechi route, Nagai-zaka in Susami Town is beloved as a section where you can enjoy the quiet atmosphere of an ancient trail together with the open expanse of the Kumano Sea. You walk along a path with few other hikers, and when the trees suddenly open up, a blue sea stretches out before you. Hiking Nagai-zaka on the Kumano Kodo Ohechi in Susami Town is perfect for those seeking this kind of "scenic reward."
What Kind of Trail Is the Ohechi?
The Ohechi is an ancient route that connects mountain passes and beaches along the coastline. While the Nakahechi crosses mountains to reach Hongu, the Ohechi heads toward the sacred lands of Kumano while the sea is in view. Rather than a bustling tourist destination, its charm lies in its simple, quiet atmosphere.
The Appeal of Nagai-zaka
- The contrast between the dappled sunlight of the old road and the sea: As you walk through the greenery, the horizon suddenly appears before you.
- A quiet mountain path: Because there aren't too many hikers, you can leisurely enjoy birdsong and the sound of the wind.
- Feeling the footsteps of travelers past: You can imagine how people long ago must have walked here too, gazing at this same sea and these same passes.
What to Prepare Before You Set Out
Even though it's a scenic hike, this is a natural old trail, not a paved walking path. Having the following preparations will give you peace of mind.
1. Wear comfortable walking shoes: The path can be slippery with mud, fallen leaves, or stones. Shoes with deep treads are recommended.
2. Bring plenty of drinks and snacks: There may be few places along the way to restock.
3. Rain gear and an extra layer: Weather and wind can change quickly along the coast, so dress in layers you can adjust.
4. Check the latest trail conditions: Depending on the weather, some sections may be difficult to pass. Before setting out, it's wise to check current conditions with the Susami Town tourism office or similar sources.
5. Finish your hike while it's still light: Especially in seasons with early sunsets, plan with plenty of time to spare.
How to Enjoy the Day
A Relaxed Half-Day Plan
For Nagai-zaka, we recommend not trying to do too much and allowing about half a day for the hike. Take your time planning, including stops to pause and admire the sea. Trains and buses aren't frequent in this area, so it's reassuring to arrange your return transportation in advance.
After Your Hike: Susami's Flavors and the Sea
Susami Town is also known for its seafood. After finishing your hike, it's lovely to enjoy a meal featuring local fish. Since business days and hours vary by establishment, check ahead before heading out. Taking one more look at the coastal scenery and quietly wrapping up your day is also a wonderful way to end it.
Recommended For
- Those who want to walk a Kumano Kodo trail with fewer people
- Those who want to enjoy both mountain and sea scenery
- Those who want to discover another side of Kumano, different from the Nakahechi
The scenic beauty of Nagai-zaka isn't the flashy kind found at major tourist spots—it's a quiet emotion that only those who walk it can experience. With proper preparation, come enjoy a stroll along this ancient coastal trail on the Kumano Kodo Ohechi in Susami Town, where sea breezes pass through.
Image: 熊野古道 (via (公社)和歌山県観光連盟)
